divisions

in any one match, you must sign up for only one division, best-suited, to your gun & holster despite advantages of particular guns & equipment, you will only be scored against others in the same division all divisions will shoot the match at the same time all holsters must be strong-side (on the hip) and a holstered gun must be within 2in of the inside of the belt ... belt must pass through belt-loops of pants (inner/outer velcro safariland/rescomp/aa belts meet this requirement)

open     ltd

ltd-10     revolver

production     single-stack

"production" and "single-stack" were created specifically for "off the shelf" pistols.   If you don't have at least 4 mags, you should plan to shoot in "ltd", until you do. (don't worry about the fancier guns, you won't be winning any trophies anytime soon, either way)

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open ported/compensated optics/red-dot 170mm mags no extra restrictions on holsters/mag-holders   technically, any gun is "legal" for open in fact, if your gun is not legal for your chosen division, it's automatically bumped to open ... even if it's legal for another division ... choose wisely!   awards 1st - 3rd Overall 1st - 3rd Class*   * must beat two others

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ltd .40+ "major" 140mm mags no extra restrictions on holsters/mag-holders   so long as it has no optics or porting, almost any gun is legal for ltd ... while 9mm is "minor", with only 2 or 3 mags, this would be a better choice than ltd-10 or production   awards 1st - 3rd Overall 1st - 3rd Class*   * must beat two others

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ltd-10 .40+ "major" 10rd+1 no extra restrictions on holsters/mag-holders   so long as it has no optics or porting, almost any gun is legal for ltd-10 ... however, you would need at least 4 mags ... preferably, 5 or 6 ... and mag-holders, for at least 4 of those ... what happens is you may have only 3 targets to shoot before you move, and ideally, you'll reload on the move, and if the next group of targets is also only 3, and you again reload on the move, you're on your 3rd mag, and you've only shot 12rd ... max. for one course is 32rd (not including make-ups for misses)   awards 1st - 3rd Overall* 1st - 3rd Class*   * must beat two others

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revolver 6rd or less fired between reloads moon-clips or speedloaders no extra restrictions on holsters/clip-hangers   if you have a 7-shot or 8-shot revolver, and fire more than 6rd between reloads, you'll automatically be bumped to open ... even though a revolver is technically legal for production   awards 1st - 3rd Overall 1st - 3rd Class*   * must beat two others

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production .40+ "minor" 10rd+1 most any da/sa or dao pistol (see also) holster/mag-holders worn behind hip-bone doh (drop & offset) holsters ok   uspsa.org has the official list of makes/models legal for production ... you should find most any modern sa/da or dao automatic pistol on that list ... if it's excessively long-bbl'd, heavy, or single-action-only, it's most likely not on the list ... common production guns are cz75 (and clones), beretta, sig, glock, xd, & s&w m&p   you will also need at least 4 mags ... preferably 5 or 6 ... and mag-holders for at least 4 of those ... what happens is you may have only 3 targets to shoot before you move, and ideally, you'll reload on the move, and if the next group of targets is also only 3, and you again reload on the move, you're on your 3rd mag, and you've only shot 12rd ... max. for one course is 32rd (not including make-ups for misses)   awards 1st - 3rd Overall 1st - 3rd Class*   * must beat two others

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single-stack .40+ "major" (8rd+1) "minor" (10rd+1) most any 1911 holster/mag-holders worn behind hip-bone in holster, front-strap must be above top of belt   before single-stack was introduced, it was not uncommon for guys to use 10rd mags with single-stack 1911's in ltd-10 ... in single-stack, only flush- fitting (more 'er less) mags are allowed ... at that, in .40/.45, they may only hold 8rd ... there's actually dimensions for a box, into which any legal single-stack pistol must fit ... so if you're gonna "game" it, be discreet   you will also need at least 4 mags ... preferably 5 or 6 ... and mag-holders for at least 4 of those ... what happens is you may have only 3 targets to shoot before you move, and ideally, you'll reload on the move, and if the next group of targets is also only 3, and you again reload on the move, you're on your 3rd mag, and you've only shot 12rd ... max. for one course is 32rd (not including make-ups for misses)   awards 1st - 3rd Overall 1st - 3rd Class*   * must beat two others

equipment

per IPSC rule 5.4.1 and 5.4.2, no one will be allowed to shoot at OGC without eye and ear protection ... glasses should be polycarbonate or the like ... we're not equipped to "test" or "certify" that your glasses are "safe" ... but you must wear glasses ... side-shields are not required ... but while someone is shooting, it's best to look at what they're shooting at ... so if there is a ricochet, it actually hits the lenses ... as opposed to your eye, by coming in at an angle ... for ear protection, cheap foam earplugs are acceptable

Kydex holsters are very well suited to USPSA shooting (this BladeTech can be used, as is, for Ltd, Ltd-10, and Revolver ... or with a screwdriver, you can easily remove the "DOH" component, and then it's legal for Single-Stack and Production)   Our own Ron Westberg has an online store, at unholstered.com, which has the Rescomp velcro over/under belt, and other stuff you might need.

Dan, over at Hoffy's Shooting Supplies, in Lake Elmo (Oakdale Gun Club is also technically, in Lake Elmo), can help you find a pistol that suits you.   They also stock factory ammo, as well as reloading equipment and components.   They're open 'til 9pm, so you can stop by, after the match.

A range-bag may be any type of bag you like ... for carrying your ammunition, spare mags, sunscreen, bug-spray, or whatever else in.   Your gun may very well be carried in your range-bag as well, however, your gun should be enclosed within it's own gun-rug.

if you've ever shot a pistol before, it's most likely been at a common firing-line, in only one direction, at a single target ... maybe even at a fixed distance.

we use shot-timers, draw from a holster, move while we shoot, and sometimes shoot at moving targets

only one person shoots, at a time ... and under direct supervision of an RO, who will shadow your every move ... and DQ you, if you violate any USPSA/IPSC safety rule

safety of the shooter, RO, and everyone else, is our #1 priority (getting DQ'd is not fun ... it's not supposed to be)

beyond that, while there are several folks looking to win slots to Nationals, everyone else is just looking to improve their own proficiency, or simply have fun

if you already own a pistol, chances are very good, it's legal for "ltd" division ... if you don't have a holster, most any $20 - $50 plastic holster is fine ... in "ltd", two "std-cap" mags (15rd+/ea) should get you through most courses (three mags would be better for .45 ... four, if they're only 8rd/ea) ... start with one in the gun, and the other(s) in a pants-pocket ... some folks like to talk about what shooting USPSA is like ... show up with what ya got, and a strong-side holster, and find out for yourself!

you may have also heard something about a very similar association to USPSA, called IDPA ... if you're not sure if you'd rather pursue IDPA, perhaps the following video can help you

•   any violation of any of the following will result in immediate disqualification, at which your gun must be cased for the remainder of the match (don't ask for a refund)

•   prior to your turn, your gun must be empty and in a proper holster until the RO says "make ready"

•   when the RO says "unload and show clear", you must eject the mag, open the action fully, eject any remaining spent casings or ammunition, and hold the action open for the RO to see into it

•   when the RO says "if clear, hammer down", you must close the action (if the gun has a "mag-safety", hold up an empty mag for the RO to see, wait for the RO to say "ok", and insert the empty mag), aim downrange at shoulder-height (or the middle of the back berm), and squeeze the trigger until the hammer drops

•   once the RO says "if clear", if your gun fires, you will be DQ'd (whether you heard him say it, or not ... and regardless of whether he "thought" it was clear, "said" it was clear, or "believed" it was empty ... it's your responsibility, to make sure it's empty ... the RO is there to help you, not to take responsibility for your gun)

•   when the RO says "holster", you must re-holster your gun (if you needed an empty mag for the mag-safety, eject it now)

•   no one may proceed downrange of the RO, until the RO says "range is clear"

•   if, at any point, your hands are relieved of a your gun (no matter who/what caused it), loaded or not, after the RO says "make ready", and before he says "range is clear", you will be DQ'd

•   if, at any point, your gun (no matter who/what caused it), ends up on the ground, before the RO says "make ready", or after he says "range is clear", and you attempt to pick it up, you will be DQ'd (an RO must direct everyone to move to a safe location, while he picks up the gun, and hands it to you such that you can reholster, without covering anyone else)

•   if, at any point, you take your gun out of your holster or case, outside the "safe area", before the RO says "make ready", or after he says "range is clear", or if it's not your turn to shoot, you will be DQ'd

•   if, at any point, you take more than one step (unless you're firing at a target, at the same time), with your finger inside the trigger-guard (or if the gun fires when you were not aiming at a target), you will be DQ'd

•   if, at any point, your muzzle is pointing past 90° of downrange, you will be DQ'd

•   if, at any point, your muzzle is pointing at any part of your body (except while drawing or re-holstering, and if your finger is outside the trigger-guard, and the pistol is decocked), you will be DQ'd

•   if, when firing an automatic, your weak-hand is behind the slide, and above your strong-hand, you will be DQ'd

•   if, at any point (except when it's your turn to shoot, and have been directed otherwise, by the active RO), your gun is not empty and holstered (unless in a designated and marked "safe area" and the pistol is unloaded), you will be DQ'd

•   if, at any point, you handle ammunition in the "safe area", or any mags/clips/loaders containing at least one round of ammunition, you will be DQ'd

•   if you and an RO don't agree on a call regarding yourself, and you continue to argue with him, or complain to others (except to the Match Director, and only until he confirms or overturns the call), you will be DQ'd

•   if you or someone else, and an RO, don't agree on a call regarding someone else, and you say anything to anyone about it (including the Match Director), you will be DQ'd

do not touch any holes in targets until they've been scored

do not paste any holes in targets until they've been scored

"major" is 165,000+ (gr x fps) and .40+ (ltd, ltd-10, or single-stack) or .355+ (open or revolver)

"minor" is 125,000+ (gr x fps) and .40+ (production) or .355+ (all)

most courses will require two hits per target (unless "Virginia Count" is specified, you may fire at, or hit any one target more than two times, but only the best two hits, will count)

if "Virginia Count" is specified, additional shots fired (beyond what is called for) in addition to any extra hits, are penalized -10pt/ea

many courses will have "hard-cover" (black) ... hits are simply considered a "miss" (no penalty, so long as the "scoring" target otherwise has the req'd hits)

many courses will have "no-shoot" (white) targets ... hits are penalized -10pt/ea

"scoring" cardboard targets are otherwise brown (steel is painted white, and unless otherwise specified, counts for "score", if it "falls")

•   if you've shot the course (and reloaded your magazines for the next) or you're not "on deck" or "in the hole", you should be doing one of: pasting targets, resetting steel, scoring, or RO'ing

•   stay with your squad (by leaving your squad, you're also leaving them with one less person to help with the above ... everyone wants to shoot 'n scoot ... why should you be the one who gets to?)

•   pick up ONLY your own brass (if it's not marked, or warm, it's not yours ... leftover brass is for the "clean-up" crew ... after everything's put away)

•   make necessary arrangements to get to the range early, or on-time for sign-up (5:00 - 5:30 ... if there was an accident on the freeway, then fine ... next time, leave earlier in case there's another)

•   once your entire squad has shot your last course, if you've not committed to "clean-up", watch to be sure at least FOUR people begin cleaning up ... if less than four, you're expected to HELP, anyhow (and next time, consider committing to help)

•   if you committed to help set-up, make necessary arrangements to get to the range by 4:00 (if you're late, help anyway ... and next time, leave earlier)

•   if you have not committed to help set-up or clean-up for at least a couple matches per year, and you're otherwise physically able, you should consider spending your time elsewhere

•   if you run into the squad ahead of you, WAIT until they LEAVE, before you get anywhere near the start-position or any other part of the course (unless you're helping them paste, reset, score, or RO)

•   once a shooter has been cleared, ONLY the "on deck" shooter may go to the start-position and/or "walk the course" (if you're not "on deck", you're in his way)

•   we lose RO's every year ... if you're at least a "C" shooter, and you don't score now and then, it's time to start! ... if you've been scoring, and haven't RO'd, it's time to start! (at our weeknight matches, you do not need to be "certified", to RO ... though, the next time a "certification" course is offered, you should seriously consider it ... and buy a timer)

•   the following identifies a few of the most common issues first-time USPSA shooters tend to have ... as well a couple other issues with folks new to shooting, in general

•   do NOT uncase your gun ANYWHERE until you receive specific direction (preferably via the "new shooter orientation" 4:30 every thursday) as to the "safe area" (this is the only place on the range you may uncase/unholster your gun) ... see also

•   without realizing it, you may be turning your pistol sideways while loading a new magazine ... with an empty gun and empty magazines, practice ejecting and inserting magazines, while keeping the pistol pointed directly away from yourself (not at the ground, but at shoulder-height) ... see also

•   possibly the single biggest issue with new folks is keeping your finger outside the trigger-guard while reloading or moving ... with an empty gun, pick a wall in a large room, and practice walking the length of that wall, back and forth, while constantly keeping the muzzle pointed 90° to it, AND keeping your finger outside the trigger-guard ... keep your finger completely straight, along the slide, like you're pointing at the same spot your pistol is ... every now and then, as you walk, try ejecting/loading an EMPTY magazine, while keeping muzzle pointed 90° to the wall (if you're right-handed, you will find this very difficult, as you move left ... that's likely how you will dq, if ever) ... see also

•   another good way to get your gun pointing sideways is, as you move laterally (which we do quite often), you either try to hold it out in front of where you're going ... or you try to hold it out behind where you've been ... either way, unless you're crab-walking, the gun's likely very close to parallel to the back berm (close to a 180° dq) ... we also shoot through openings in, or between, walls ... there's a strong tendency to plunge your arms way in there ... but at some point, you gotta come back out, and if you don't first pull the gun straight back so your elbows are bent, and the gun is close to your chest, it'll likely trail behind you as you move, and in order to clear the wall, you come very close to the 180° ... the (prior) "home" drill will help with much of this ... moreover, as you walk the length of the wall, stop now and then, face the wall, extend your gun as if to shoot, then pull it back to your chest, turn (but keep the gun 90° to the wall), and continue walking ... see also

•   also as to moving laterally, specifically along walls, there's a strong tendency to stay very close to the wall ... we use snow-fence for our walls ... it wouldn't take much at all, to snag the muzzle in one of the holes ... or of course, at the edge of the opening (risking a 180° dq) ... give yourself some room ... ideally, should you stop, turn, and extend to fire, at any point along the wall, your muzzle would still be at least 6in+ from it ... some openings in the wall may be so small as to require you to step closer ... when they don't, the better shooter won't (and as a result, he'll be rewarded for not having done so, in a quicker time for the course) ... see also

•   most folks showing up their first time don't know which division to sign-up for ... as long as your pistol has no porting, compensator, or optics, do not sign-up for "Open" ... if you have at least 4 magazines, AND mag-holders for at least 3 of 'em, you can sign-up for "Single-Stack" (if it's a 1911), "Production" (if it's a commonly available DA/SA or DAO pistol and on USPSA's "approved" list), or "Ltd-10" ... otherwise, if you only have 2 or 3 magazines, sign-up for "Ltd" and otherwise don't worry about it ... it's simply not that big of a deal ... see also

•   some folks tend to grip their pistols with their "weak" hand (the one ya don't pull the trigger with) either palm-up, under the butt of the pistol, or worse yet, on top of the web (between your thumb and index-finger) of their "strong" hand ... with the slide coming rearward at a considerable velocity, and otherwise having somewhat sharp corners, you could very easily end up with a bloody hand ... following is an example of a near-perfect two-hand grip:



•   not visible in the (above) picture are the thumbs ... new shooters tend to try to employ their thumbs into gripping the pistol ... this is unnecessary, and inadvisable ... simply let your thumbs stick out, where they may (if the pistol has a 1911-style thumb-safety, it is advisable to keep your "strong" hand thumb on it, while shooting ... or, if it's a revolver, keep your "strong" hand thumb low, and bring your "weak" hand thumb over the top of it, against the grip/frame ... you don't want it extended near the front of the cylinder, as it could otherwise be badly burnt, by what escapes the "cylinder-gap")



•   most of our shooting involves drawing your pistol from a holster ("strong"-side, preferably not IWB) ... if you watch a Clint Eastwood movie, that would not be how you should draw ... with an empty gun, practice standing with your feet shoulder-width apart, knees slightly bent, arms hanging at sides ... first bring your "weak"-hand up so it's touching the bottom of your rib-cage ... bring your "strong" hand over the grip of the pistol keeping your index-finger straight and your thumb high ... grasp the grip by squeezing your fingers against the front, pulling it into the palm of your hand ... keep your thumb high, and don't use it to grab the pistol ... with a firm grasp, draw the pistol out, inline with the cant (angle) of the holster, until the muzzle clears the front of the opening ... begin tilting the muzzle up towards parallel with the ground, and at the same time, move it towards an imaginary spot about 8in in front of your breast-bone ... as the pistol comes to that spot, move your "weak"-hand towards it, and employ it in your grip, when it gets to the pistol (if the pistol has a thumb-safety, you can disengage it, at this point, forward) ... once the pistol gets to that imaginary spot in front of your breast-bone, extend the pistol forward from your body, stopping when both arms are only slightly bent (as pictured, above) ... once your sights are on-target, go ahead and stick your finger inside the trigger-guard, and fire

•   when you move, with a loaded pistol in your hands, walk, don't run (that'll come later ... much later)

•   on any one course, there may be a combination of targets being one or more of brown (scoring), black (non-scoring), white (penalty -10pt/hit), and steel (usually painted white, but unless otherwise noted, it's a scoring target ... not a penalty) ... see also

•   what happens if I "register"? • you're on our e-mailing list for match updates/cancellations and no one will ever get your address, from us

•   I already "registered", but it doesn't look like it, now? • if you "registered", we have your email address, and you're all set ... your web-browser/computer doesn't know you're "registered", unless you did so, using that particular web-browser/computer ... you can "re-register" if you like, but it's not necessary

•   I "registered", but I didn't get a "verification-code" in my email? • an email will be sent to you from ipsc@krok.us ... if you don't see it in your inbox within a couple minutes, more than likely, a "spam filter" rejected it ... if you have access to what's been rejected, try looking there ... otherwise, we have your email address ... your web-browser/computer simply doesn't realize it ... either way, you're all set

•   I already "registered" for email alerts, is this a new one? • no ... it's simply been moved ... your web-browser/computer won't recognize that you're already "registered", but we still have your email address, and you're all set

•   can I help set-up/tear-down? • PLEASE! ... without folks like yourselves helping, these matches would not take place ... we'll also take $5 off your match-fee if you help set-up or tear-down ... $10, if ya do both (we know that doesn't "pay" for your time, but it's the least we can do, for those who understand that "many hands make light work")

•   can I show up with a loaded gun? • NO! ... per USPSA rules, your gun may ONLY be loaded at the direction of the RO, when it's your turn to shoot (if your gun is loaded at any other time, you will be DQ'd) ... MN state law affords you the right to "disarm" in any parking-lot (including the one at the gun club) ... try to be discreet (just because there's other guys at the gun club don't mean they're up on state law, or otherwise ok with someone "handling" a gun away from the "firing-line")

•   how many rounds do I need? • at least 100rd for a weeknight match (add 100rd for a weekend match) ... keep in mind, you'll be dropping partially-loaded mags, and you might need to re-shoot a course, so it's always best to bring extra, and not need it (you can leave an extra box or two in the car, in case ya do)

•   can I use my duty rig? • per USPSA rule US5.2.8, cops may use their duty rigs for all OGC USPSA matches (as all are Level I matches) ... however, please remember to disarm prior to the start of each match

•   what are USPSA & IPSC? • IPSC (International Practical Shooting Confederation) is an international organization which sets forth rules by which matches are shot ... USPSA (United States Practical Shooting Association) is the U.S. association within IPSC which may expand upon the rules set forth by IPSC

•   how do I join IPSC? • you can't actually join IPSC ... directly ... but by joining USPSA, you are a member of IPSC, as well

•   are there restrictions to join USPSA? • simply that, by the laws which govern any state in which you might shoot, or that of your residence, that you may legally possess a handgun

•   what do I get by joining USPSA? • most matches will have one course called a "classifier", as a USPSA member, your score for each "classifier" will be kept in a database and your most recent scores will be used to determine your "classification", by which, you can gauge your proficiency against others ... you also get a bi-monthly magazine ... also, some larger matches require USPSA membership to shoot

•   what are the USPSA classifications? • until you accumulate at least four "classifier" scores, you will be classified "U" (unclassified) ... from there it goes "D", "C", "B", "A", "master", & "grand-master" ... most will shoot for years before making "B" class ... if ever

•   how does IDPA compare to USPSA? • if you ask someone who prefers IDPA, they'll tell you it's more "real-life" oriented ... frankly, nearly everything's identical ... except in IDPA, you're penalized for dropping mags (if they have at least 1rd in them), for taking extra shots (so the mag is empty, when it drops), and for not "using cover" ... in IDPA, holsters can't stick out from your body ... and while there's a purdy good match between most divisions, IDPA may be somewhat more restrictive ... and while USPSA courses may require up to 32rd, no IDPA course (timed string) may require more than 18rd

•   is it expensive to shoot USPSA matches? • "expensive" is a relative term ... this varies greatly by "division" ... to be competitive in the "open" division requires at least over $2,000 just for the gun ... however, for the "production" division, most guns cost under $600, and not much more than another $100 for belt, holster, and mag-holders ... ammo, is where it can get expensive ... not many years ago, you could buy a 100rd package of Winchester U.S.A. 9mm FMJ from Wal-Mart for $11 ... lately, that's been closer to $20 ... most courses are under 32rd, and most weeknight matches are only 3 courses (one being a classifier, which is usually closer to 12rd) ... figuring 100rd for weeknight matches, and 150rd for weekend matches, and let's say 10 of the former, and 5 of the latter, in one year's time, you could spend over $300 on ammo ... if you'd like to practice, you could easily double that ... beyond that, match fees are rarely more than $25 to shoot a weekend match ... closer to $15 for weeknight matches

•   most of the video I've seen shows competitors wearing fancy jerseys and moving very fast ... where can I go to prepare for my first match? • those videos are of the top shooters in the country ... most matches are not like that at all ... most folks wear whatever they'd wear if they were playing with their kids in the backyard ... and where you might see a top shooter breaking into a sprint from one group of targets to another, most others will simply walk quickly ... some even slowly ... so long as you're familiar with your gun, and can keep 40rd of 50rd on a paper-plate at 15ft, and you have an appropriate belt, holster, and mag-holders, you're ready for your first match (although, it's preferrable if you can give the USPSA rulebook a good once-through prior to showing up your first time)

•   what would be an "appropriate" belt, holster, and mag-holders? • the USPSA rulebook is the best source to answer this ... first and foremost, the holster and mag-holders must be worn on a belt which must pass through the belt-loops of your pants ... and no cross-draw holsters or any holster canted such that the muzzle is pointing more than 36in from your feet ... otherwise, most leather carry-holster are perfect for "single-stack" and "production" divisions ... BladeTech and CompTac make nice Kydex holsters, well-suited to USPSA shooting for a reasonable price ... Safariland and Rescomp have velcro over/under belts that are less expensive than most leather belts, and are perfect for "every" division ... don't forget, as courses can reach 32rd, and you'll probably reload while the old mag still has rounds in it, you'll need more than a couple magazines ... at least several moon-clips for "revolver" division

•   how many magazines/holders do I need? • at least 5 for Single-Stack, Ltd-10, or Production ... any other division (except revolver) allows you to completely fill hi-cap mags ... in most cases, you'll only use two mags on a course ... but, I like to have an extra holder for the first mag (otherwise, you could carry it in a pocket, to the start-position) ... and, I like to have at least one extra mag (and a holder for it) in case one of 'em gives me any trouble (resolution for any mag problem is "tap, rack, bang" ... and if that don't work, eject it, rack the slide a few times, put in a new mag, rack it, and go) ... so, by my count, that's 3 holders on my belt, and when the start-signal sounds, that's at least 2 mags in 'em ... also, Single-Stack, Ltd-10, and Production allow you to "top off" (chamber a round, engage any manual safety available, eject the mag, and load a full mag) ... it's best if you keep the mag (the one you chambered the first round from, and ejected) as far away from the front of your body, as possible (as it now has one less round, than any other mag on your belt) ... for this reason, I like to have one more magazine (and holder), for those divisions (now up to 6, on the belt)

•   do I need shoes with cleats? • when you first start shooting USPSA matches, you should make a point to move very slowly (until all the little safety gotchas become reflex) ... should you choose, at some point, to move more quickly, shoes with a more aggressive tread, to the extent they keep you from falling down, with a loaded gun in your hand, would be preferrable ... I would say cleats are unnecessary, but then I have no desire to move quite that fast

•   can I wear camo? • per IPSC rule 5.3.1, the wearing of "camoflauge" by non-military or police is "discouraged" ... and "the Match Director will be the final authority in respect of what garments competitors are allowed to wear" ... as such, you may wear whatever you'd like at OGC

•   do I need to take a class, or is there any other requirement to shooting USPSA? • USPSA clubs are independent entities which produce matches at their host range ... some ranges or clubs may have requirements such as a "hunter's safety" certificate for those under 18yr-old ... some clubs do require you attend a special orientation which they offer one day a year ... OGC simply asks that you show up early to any weeknight match and ask around until you find someone to go over orientation with you

•   what is the safe area? • the orientation will answer many of these questions, but the safe area is possibly the most important thing to understand ... it's the one place at the range that you are allowed to have your pistol out of a case or holster, except when you are directed by an RO to do so (when it's your turn to shoot) ... what makes the safe area safe, is that no ammo is allowed ... keep ammo out of the safe area, keep your pistol pointed in a safe direction, and never allow your pistol out of a case or holster anywhere else, and you'll have very little else to worry about

•   where can I load my mags? • not in the safe area ... anywhere else is absolutely fine ... please keep in mind, in Minnesota (unless the law has changed, again), unless you have a "permit to carry" which is valid in Minnesota (or possibly in any other state you go to shoot in), you may not legally be allowed to transport mags containing any ammo in any motor-vehicle (as well, your pistol likely must be empty, in an appropriate case, and positioned in your vehicle as far away from the driver as possible, or in the trunk, if you've got one) ... regardless of your interest in actually carrying a gun, you should endeavor to vote the "pro-gun" ticket (and join the NRA) anytime you can ... there's no shortage of well-intentioned folks out there who are willing to pass any kind of law they think might make it the least bit more difficult for a criminal to use a gun ... what they fail to understand is, criminals never obey the law (in fact, that's sort of the definition of a criminal) ... as such, should you choose to own a gun, or you fear you might somehow otherwise come into contact with a gun, while such laws were never intended to put you in jail, most cops aren't free to make that sort of assessment, on their own ... at which, at the least, you'll need the services of an exceptional attorney ... regardless, for this simple reason alone, many competitive shooters acquire a "permit to carry"

•   how do I "register" to shoot a USPSA match? • larger matches (usually well over six courses of fire) may require "pre-registration" ... otherwise, upon arriving to a match, simply locate the "registration desk", print your name, your "division", your USPSA# (if you have one), pay the match fee, collect your scoresheets, and copy your name and shooter# (not your USPSA#, but the number next to your name in the order you signed-up) to each of your scoresheets

•   what's a "squad"? • as any match will likely have at least two or more courses, it would not make sense to have everyone wait to shoot one course before anyone shoots another ... so, after you "register" for a match, you may find a "squad sign-up" sheet ... otherwise, you may be assigned a "squad" ... a "squad" is nothing more than the group of people you will shoot with for the entire match ... one "squad" will start on one course, and another "squad" will start on another course ... once an entire "squad" has shot a course, they will move on to the next course ... at each course, scoresheets will be collected, shuffled, and a shooting-order will be read ... it's generally undesirable to be among the first in the shooting-order, but if you're new, ask to be "bumped down" so you have a chance to see how the course might best be shot

•   how are USPSA matches scored? • by each course description, each target will have a maximum number of points which can be scored ... for most courses, this will be 2 hits for 5 points each for a total of 10 points per target ... if a course has a dozen such targets, the total points for the course would be 120 ... if "Fred" scored 110 points in 20 seconds he'd have a "hit-factor" of 5.5 pts/sec ... if "Barney" scored 115 points in 22 seconds, he'd have a "hit-factor" of 5.227 pts/sec ... if these were the top two shooters, in their "division", on that course, "Fred" would be declared "100%" and be awarded 100% of the total 120 points available (as such, he'd get 120 points) for this course ... and as "Barney" has a "hit-factor" of 5.227, his percentage would be based on the top (5.5), so his percentage is "95%" ... at which, he'd be awarded 114 points for this course ... should both shooters subsequently shoot another course which has 16 targets, for a total of 160 points, and "Barney" scores 155 points in 34 seconds, and "Fred" scores 160 points in 37 seconds, "Barney" would be awarded "100%", being 160 points, and "Fred" would be awarded "94%", being 150 points ... for both courses combined, "Fred" has a total of 270 points, and "Barney" has a total of 274 points ... however, should someone else come along and shoot either course with an even higher "hit-factor", he'd then set a new "100%", and "Fred" and "Barney's" scores would change as a result ... in fact, should the new top "hit-factor" on the 160 point course become, let's say, "7.5 pts/sec", then "Fred's" percentage would be "57.7%" for 92 points and "Barney's" percentage would be "60.8%" for 97 points ... so then, "Fred's" total would be 212 points and "Barney's" total would be 211 points ... as such, nothing definite can be reliably determined until all scores have been compiled ... this also explains why, should you happen to see "combined overall" results for "all divisions", one competitor might place higher than another, than within their division, alone (while not nearly the same thing, if you really want to compare two sets of scores, you could simply multiply each shooter's points by each shooter's hit-factor, for each course, and then simply add them up for all courses so scored and the one with the higher result, is most likely ahead)

•   are awards given? • yes ... every year, only matches thru July 31st will count for awards ... to get an award, you must shoot half + 1 of the matches in the same category (if there are 11, best of 6 wins ... if there are 12, best of 7 wins) ... we will take your best half + 1 matches (percentage) and add them up ... for any "class" or Ltd-10 "overall" awards, you must also beat at least two other people (who have also shot at least half + 1 matches in the same category) ... plaques will be handed out at the points match

•   is accuracy or speed more important? • your score will be your total points (accuracy) divided by your time (speed) ... so they're equally important ... however, until you're getting nearly all A's time and again, you should be slowing down at least until you're getting mostly A's ... otherwise, you'll find that simply "going faster" will only makes things worse ... your score, your chances of DQ, and the general safety of others ... once you get to where, now and then, you're getting nearly all A's, that's a good indicator that you might want to speed things up a tad

•   when should I make up a miss? • a miss is typically worth -10pts (two perfect hits) ... about the only time you should even consider not making it up, is when another attempt is likely to miss as well (target's far away), or if you're already moving/reloading ... ideally, you'll already know which groups of targets you can afford to take extra shots at (if the course is "Virginia Count", extra shots are -10pts/ea) ... when firing at such a target, if you think you missed (before the bullet gets to the target), simply let another one go right away ... otherwise, don't give it another thought ... and move on ... if your miss is actually a hit on a no-shoot target, that's actually costing you -10pts for the miss, -10pts for the no-shoot hit, and 5pts you'd otherwise have with an A hit ... in that case, one more good hit could get you back 15pts (10pts for the miss plus 5pts for an A hit) ... however, if the scoring area is particularly small and close to a no-shoot target, you run the risk of adding another -10pts for an additional no-shoot hit (at which, you might prefer to simply cut your losses, and move on)

•   why do I need a 0.005g reloading scale? • you might not ... but be warned, most "reloading" scales purport a precision of "0.01g/0.1gr", however there's actually 0.15gr per 0.01g (at which, for every other 0.1gr ya try to measure, it'll read an extra 0.1gr) ... depending on how the scale was zero'd, you could realize a total of 0.3gr precision ... for loads nowhere near "max.", so long as you're dropping powder consistently, they're probably all within 0.1gr, anyhow ... just not within 0.1gr of what you "think" they are ... if you really wanna see 0.1gr precision, you'd need a scale of at least 0.005g (gram) precision (which would also be about 0.08gr, or on the readout, 0.1gr)

•   how do I determine height for a new front sight? • if you're shooting low, and can't raise your rear sight high enough, or shooting high, and can't lower it enough, you need to replace the front sight (presuming there isn't otherwise something wrong with the gun/ammo) ... measure e = inches off, on target ... measure r = inches from front to rear sight ... measure d = inches from rear sight to target ... e x r ÷ d = +/- adjustment to front sight (the same formula may be used to calculate a rear sight adjustment ... for example: 4in error x 7in sight-radius ÷ 25yd range = 1/32in correction ... at 24 TPI, this would be about 3/4 turn ... a little goes a long way)

minnesota section

Faribault (GPS / scores)

Harris (GPS / scores)

St. Francis (GPS / scores)

MAPSA (GPS / scores)

Duluth (GPS / scores)

Pine Island (GPS / scores)

St. Cloud (GPS / scores)

MN Section (GPS / scores)

non-uspsa

MN 3-Gun

Sioux Falls

Holmen

Del-Tone/Luth

Beaverbrook

CBA

SASS

SC

SSC

ICORE

IDPA

grains:     fps:           pf:     me:

(change GRAINS and/or FPS, click CALCULATE to see new PF/ME)

error:in     radius:in     distance:yd           adjust:in

(change ERROR and/or RADIUS and/or DISTANCE, click CALCULATE to see ADJUSTMENT)

dedicated to the memory of Bruce Nelson (died 1995 at 47yr, survived by one-time NRA president Sandra S. Froman)

Bruce is accredited for having originally designed two different holsters known today, among others, as the "Summer Special" (Milt Sparks) and the "Avenger" (Galco) or "55BN" (Milt Sparks)

"55BN"


"Summer Special"


Bruce was a narcotics officer in California, making holsters in his garage ... noticed by Milt Sparks, who then asked permission to copy the designs ... the likes of Lou Alessi (passed away 2009), Bianchi, Kramer, K.L. Null, Haugen, Tucker, Del Fatti, Rafter-S, Galco, and countless others, did likewise

unlike a "pancake" holster, the front loop is behind the holster, thereby keeping the bbl of the pistol a bit further from the body, but also causing the butt of the grip (the least concealable part of any pistol) to angle in, towards the body, but otherwise not embed itself into your "love handles" ... this results in the most comfortable (yet concealed) carry holsters, available ... should you find a "pancake" left at home, more and more often, a Bruce Nelson clone may very well be what you need

AR-15 beginner's guide

AR-15's are to men as Barbie's are to little girls.   That said, if you're not planning to drive up to a bench and shoot prairie-dogs at 300yd, a 24in bull bbl AR would probably prove too burdensome for ... well ... anything else.

In choosing an AR, it could help a great deal to understand that, every AR is comprised of two "halves" ... "upper" and "lower".   Moreover, should you purchase nearly any "complete" upper and "complete" lower, they will fit together as well, and as easily, as replacing the slide/bbl on a field-stripped pistol.   This is helpful because, as many different "whole" rifles are available, many more different "uppers" are available.   At which, if you can't find a "whole" rifle configured exactly as you'd like, if you can find a "complete" upper you like, it's really no trick at all to getting a "complete" lower, and slapping 'em together.

For example, if you wanted an inexpensive 16in AR that you could carry most anywhere, with minimal effort, you could get this lower, this upper, one or more magazines, ammo, and a scope, and you're ready to shoot.   Only the "lower" requires a NICS check, so if you wanted, you could have your "upper" of choice, shipped directly to your home.

Lots of folks have lots of opinions on which manufacturer makes the best "lower", "upper", bbl, magazines, and/or parts.   Shop around if ya like ... pay more for a "cool" name, if it helps ya sleep at night.   DPMS is a Minnesota company ... they make a good product ... lots of folks are happy with 'em ... and they've been supporting the shooting sports for lots of years ... ya'd do well to see what they got for ya.

As to the "lower", there's really not much to it.   You can easily change out the grip, yourself.   Installing a new buttstock may require a couple special tools.   Beyond that, it's all about the trigger ... most "complete" lowers come with barely acceptable triggers.   And if they don't, they probably cost $100 - $200 more ... which is what a replacement trigger of superior quality, will run ya, anyhow.   Some triggers are fairly easy to install ... others, not so much.   Most any gunsmith can install most any trigger for $50 (labor) or less.

The "upper" is where things can get really interesting.   Probably the single biggest factor is the bbl ... length ... and more importantly, contour.   A thicker contoured bbl ("heavy" or "bull") is going to put a lot of weight, out in front of you.   This can be nice for shooting as, when you fire, the whole gun will move less ... affording a quicker follow-up shot.   But if you need to haul it around for any kind of distance, it can make for a very burdensome gun.   Bbl's can be "fluted" to reduce weight, however some are merely for cosmetic effect.   Others may appear fairly modest, in thickness, but under the handguard, they may be quite a bit thicker, and heavy.   Frankly, unless it's specifically advertised as being "light contour" or "lightweight", it's probably fairly heavy.   If it's not advertised as a "heavy" or "bull" bbl, it may not be too horrible.   Of course, a shorter bbl will not have as much weight, so far forward ... which, for your purposes, may or may not be a good thing. (some folks prefer more weight forward, as they believe it helps them hold more steady, off-hand)

If your bbl is not particularly thick, you may notice a change in the point-of-impact relative to how hot, or not, it is.   A thicker bbl will dissipate heat better.   However, as mentioned, a heavier bbl can make for a burdensome gun to carry, and can result in a particularly front-heavy gun

A nice feature is a "flash-hider" ... not because it'll hide the "flash" ... but because that means the bbl is threaded, so you can easily screw on a compensator, which in lieu of (or in addition to) a "heavy" bbl, will prevent the gun from moving too much, as it's fired.

Uppers come in two "carry-handle" flavors ... "A2" (non-removable) ... and "A3" (removable).   In some cases, an "A3" will not include the carry-handle (at which, it's probably priced about $100 less).   I've never actually seen anyone carry an AR, by the carry-handle.   But housed within it, is a nice peep sight.   If your upper also has an "A2" front sight (the big triangular shaped thingy just ahead of the handguard), you're all set for "iron sights".   If your upper instead has a "gas-block w/rail", you can mount a removable front sight, on it.   If it doesn't have an "A2" front sight, or a "gas-block w/rail", you'll have to have one of those installed, before you can use the rear sight.   Conversely, if you choose an "A3" w/o a carry-handle ("flat-top"), or otherwise keep it off, you wouldn't need an "A2" front sight, or a "gas-block w/rail" (although, neither would otherwise cause any issues).   Lots of folks go with the "A3" ("flat-top") and mount a scope.   Moreover, if you're over 6ft tall, you might have problems getting your eye down far enough to otherwise make use of an "A2" front sight (or removable sight of comparable height) ... at which, you might prefer your upper have a "gas-block w/rail", instead of an "A2" front sight, so you could then use 1/2in "risers" with removable front/rear sights (these might prove valuable, in mounting a scope, as well).

As to bbl-length, if you'd prefer the gun to be somewhat "maneuvarable", 16in - 18in would be good.   Longer than that, you're probably gonna end up with a gun that's best suited to a bench ... and not much else.   Keep in mind, anything under 16in is illegal (without some very expensive paperwork) ... although, some manufacturers offer shorter bbl-lengths with a pinned/welded compensator/flash-hider (or the like) which otherwise brings the total length up to 16in.   If you wanted, you could get a "pistol" lower (when doing the NICS, you must specify it's for a "pistol", and it should probably be so marked), and then you can put whatever bbl-length you want, on it (although, that's not very popular).

The rifling in the bbl will most often have a twist of 1 in 9in.   1 in 8in is gaining in popularity, as it affords shooting heavier (over 62gr) bullets, with greater accuracy (although, lighter bullets might not otherwise group as well).   1 in 7in is also available (more of the same, I suppose).

The length of the "gas-tube" (hidden under the "handguard") will vary, usually with the bbl-length ... shortest being "carbine", longest being "rifle", and the other being "mid-length" (more commonly found with an 18in bbl).   Depending on what types of cartridges you're shooting, and the bbl-length, one particular "gas-tube" length (or "gas system") may prove more reliable, than the others.   Usually, if you're looking at a "complete" upper, whatever length "gas system" it comes with, is presumably fine, for its intended use.   That said, a "rifle"-length gas-system typically exhibits the least recoil (but with a shorter bbl, may not cycle some loads properly).

If the handguard is "free-float", it won't make any kind of contact with the bbl, near the "gas-block" (remember, an "A2" front sight is also, the "gas-block") ... this is supposed to improve accuracy at extended ranges.   Otherwise, an "A2" handguard (usually plastic, with an aluminum shield, inside) is easily replaced with any other, comparably sized (as to the "gas-tube" length) one, so long as it is not a "free-float" handguard (which otherwise requires special tools, and removal of any "A2" front sight or other "gas-block" which is too large for the handguard to slip over).

A "collapsible" buttstock allows the LOP ("length of pull" ... distance from the butt, to the trigger) to be adjusted ... although, the adjustments are usually so large, from one to the next, that for most adult men, only the longest setting, is usable ... at which, a standard "A2" (typical-looking fixed-length) buttstock would likely do just as well.   However, should you ever want to shoot the gun in colder weather, wearing a heavy coat, you might find the adjustable buttstock a handy feature.

AR's "take-down" very easily, for proper cleaning.   There are two pins you can "push out" (they'll actually stop, before they're pushed completely out of the lower, but otherwise "release" the upper).   If you only "push out" the rear pin, the upper will pivot on the front pin (this is typically what's done, for cleaning).   The "charging-handle" will slide out the back of the upper (bringing the "bolt" with it) ... you'll need to slide the "bolt" all the way out, and then slide the "charging handle" downward, at a particular point, in order to remove it, as well.   At this point, you can look from the rear of the upper and see into the bore of the bbl.   I highly recommend using a one-piece carbon-fiber (Tipton) cleaning rod, brass spear-tipped jag, and cotton-flannel (not "knit") patches.   You can start with a dry patch, or one wet with a mild solvent, and push it from the rear, out the muzzle (do not draw the first patch backwards) to clear out the bulk of the crud.   Past this point, you can use whatever combination of dry/wet patches with whatever solvent you trust most.   Finish with a few dry patches ... and if storing for an extended period, make the last patch wet with oil (you'll want to push a dry patch through, before you shoot it again).   There should be no reason whatsoever to use a bronze or steel bore brush ... nor a nylon one (a nylon brush won't hurt anything, but it don't compare to a jag and flannel patch).   Some folks do a "break-in" where they clean after every three shots or so, up to the first twenty or so, and then every twenty or so, thereafter.   Once the bbl is "broken-in", you should notice, using flannel patches, it takes a lot less time to clean, than when you first did it.   You should probably avoid particularly "harsh" solvents, as they may get into the "gas-block", and can't otherwise be removed, without removing the "gas-block" (some solvents may actually "eat" away at the "gas-block", where it meets the bore, or drip back into the bore, and "eat" away at that).

Lots of guys mount "bipods" on their AR's, for shooting from a bench ... ideally, you'll have a sling-stud on the 6 o'clock position on your handguard, near the "gas-block", that you can mount the "bipod" to.   If not, you will need to either affix a strip of picatinny/weaver rail, there ... or a sling-stud.

Typical AR scopes are either low-power (i.e. 1-4x) or high-power (i.e. 20x or more).   Low-power scopes afford quicker target "acquisition", and therefore, "faster" shooting.   High-power scopes don't necessarily afford more "accurate" shooting, as they do, the ability to "see" your hits on your target, from the bench, without moving between the gun, and a spotting scope.   A high-power scope is almost completely useless, unless you're using a bench ... and with a very solid rest, at that.   Some guys mount 1x red-dot "scopes" ... sometimes with a "magnifier", which may or may not swing out of the way (this way, they could do some fast shooting at close range, and then more "accurate" shooting at extended ranges, by simply swinging the "magnifier" into play ... or back out, again).

"3-Gun" is a shooting sport which typically utilizes an automatic pistol, automatic or pump shotgun, and an automatic rifle (most often, an AR).   In Minnesota, most "3-Gun" matches are governed by the MN 3-Gun Group.   Before you buy an AR, you might wanna check out their rules, to see which "division" your desired AR would put you in ... you may discover a particular "option" you can now live without, to put you into a less competitive ("expensive") "division" ... should you ever decide to give it a go.   Unless you're a very avid hunter, this may be one of the only other opportunities to actually shoot your AR.   Shooting from a bench, at the same range, week after week, month after month, can sometimes get a bit boring ... sometimes.   Last I checked, the only issues with a "3-Gun" division would be whether you have "iron sights", a scope, a 1x red-dot, or a combination of more than one of those, and a compensator larger than 1x3in (best to actually check the latest rules though, just to be sure).

While a "3-Gun" or "CQB" scope should afford "low-power" (i.e. 1.5-4x), if it's going to be more of a "bench" gun, you might appreciate higher magnification.   For the money, 6-18x or 6.5-20x is popular.   These higher magnification scopes may likely be more "fussy" as to how your eye is positioned, relative to the ocular.   It will most certainly need to be "in-line" with the axis of the scope (and not otherwise move very much, at which, you should endeavor to keep a good "cheek-weld" with the stock, while your eye is also "in-line").   It may also need to be a particular distance ... and not necessarily very close (at which, you may need a mount which puts the scope more "forward", over the handguard).   There are no end of "HSLD" one-piece "quick-release" mounts out there ... well over $150.   That said, for about $50, you can get 1in (high, not necessarily dia., but maybe that too) rings ... and a 1/2in "riser" which also "extends" forward, over the handguard.   If you're not a particularly tall person, you might prefer somewhat "shorter" rings (so long as you still use a 1/2in riser, otherwise 1in high will likely barely be enough, alone).   Aluminum mounts and rings will weigh much less than their steel counterparts ... and, shooting stuff this side of .338, with minimal torque, they'll keep your scope in-place, just fine.   However, if you try to turn the screws too far, you may very well strip out the threads ... so go easy.

All of the above is in regards to a .223/5.56 "upper" (if marked "5.56", you can safely shoot both, but not vice-versa).   There are other caliber "uppers" which would otherwise fit in the same "lower", and shoot just fine (although, if your lower is designed for .223-length cartridges, make sure any other upper you get, is also made for that length of cartridge).   There are also .308-length AR's, which are otherwise not compatible with a .223-length "upper"/"lower".   As caliber changes, the bbl-twist may be quite a bit different (but most likely appropriate, for its caliber) ... as may be the "gas-tube" length.   In some cases, you can't use standard 5.56/.223 magazines.   To whatever extent you're comfortable with any extra requirements, you could possibly have several different calibers of "uppers", which all are easily swapped with a single "lower".   You could also have two different 5.56/.223 uppers, where one may be a 16in "lightweight" 1 in 9in, and another may be a 20in "bull" 1 in 7in ... simply slap on the one ya wanna use that day, and go!



following are some how-to videos for assembling a stripped-lower
you will need a 3/32 "roll-pin punch" (with the little "nipple" on the end), a "vise-block" (unless your vise has VERY SOFT jaws, and you don't otherwise crush the receiver), and an "AR-wrench" (for the "castle-nut")
also make sure if you buy your stock and buffer-tube separately, that they are both "mil-spec" or "commercial" (you can't mix the two types) and that if it's a "carbine" stock that you also get a "carbine" buffer-tube, a "carbine" castle-nut, a "carbine" end-plate, a "carbine" buffer-spring, and a "carbine" buffer (most collapsible stocks are "carbine")

lpk w/o trigger or lpk w/trigger + lighter trigger springs magpul "moe" trigger-guard jp adjustable trigger +hammer +"anti-walk" pins (unless you already got a trigger) "carbine" buffer spring "carbine" "heavy" buffer 6-position "carbine" "commercial" buffer tube "castle" nut buffer tube end plate magpul "ctr" collapsible "commercial" buttstock















following is a how-to video for breaking-down your bolt-carrier group





following is an overview video for installing a free-float handguard

deer hunting 101

If you can't go with a buddy, don't go!   More deer hunters die from heart-attacks and falling out of trees, than anything.   maps.google.com makes it somewhat easy to find your hunting grounds, check out a satellite photo of the area, make a plan as to who might be posted where, in what general directions they can each shoot, and not kill someone, and what some good areas to walk through are, to kick up deer for whomever's posted.   Certainly wouldn't hurt to print out a screen-shot. (the "Print Screen" key is usually on the far upper-right of your keyboard ... hit it, and then open MS Paint, and Edit/Paste ... then Print)   maps.google.com also will show you the GPS coodinates for what you see.   You can plug these into your cell-phone and/or GPS unit.     It would also be a good idea to print them out for your wife, co-worker, or neighbor and let them know what dates you plan to be there.   If you have a plan "B" site, print them out, too!

You're gonna be in the woods/field ... probably a few miles from the nearest Kwik Trip.   Bring some drinking water (also comes in handy for cleaning wounds), soap, paper-towels, band-aids ... and maybe some burn-creme, too.   If you haven't cut yourself gutting a deer, you haven't gut too many deer.

You should carry band-aids at all times, but also a rope to drag the deer, a knife to gut it, and a flashlight (preferably one that straps to your head and has an LED bulb).   Don't be cheap ... buy new batteries for all your flashlights!   If you can visit the area a couple weeks ahead of time, bring a few hundred reflective thumb-tacks.   Stick the tacks into trees every 20 - 30ft along the path ya wanna take to/from your post ... and/or to kick up deer for your buddies.   It can still be pretty dark in the morning, when legal shooting hours commence.   A good head-lamp and a nice trail of tacks will keep ya from circling around in the dark or walking up to a stranger's (or your buddy's) post, and him shooting you for sounding too much like a deer!

Unless you've got a pickup, you're gonna need to figure out how you're gonna get the deer to the registration (better find our where the nearest one is), and to the butcher, without getting blood all over the back of your wife's minivan.   Maybe pack a 100ft of nylon cord ... just in case!   It's also a good idea, if you're not leaving right away, to hang the deer to let all the blood drain out, real good (a small 2in pulley from the local hardware store for $5 might save on the hands, arms, and back).   And if it ain't much below 50°, maybe get going to the butcher, by way of registration, sooner than later!

Consider picking up a nice set of earplugs ... preferably custom-molded.   Ya can use these at the range ... but also at your post.   If you jerk your head around for every little twig-snap, a deer might see it, and go elsewhere ... and you'd never know ... because it never made a sound.   That hi-power rifle can be very loud without any kind of ear-protection.

Check your state's DNR regulations on what types of weapons are legal ... and where.   In Minnesota, rifles can't be used south of some highway (MN 95, IIRC).   There may also be restrictions on caliber and/or types of ammo.   Typically any centerfire rifle cartridge over .22 using an expanding (hollow-point, soft-point, or the like) bullet is fine.   Pistol calibers seem to change with the wind ... always good to check the latest regs!

Shotguns are easy!   They either have a smooth-bore, or a rifled bbl (the latter made specifically for shooting "sabot" slugs).   A smooth-bore (using "rifled" slugs) is fine ... although, your range will be somewhat limited by a shorter trajectory, inherent accuracy of the gun/slug combination, and your ability to hold steady until the slug leaves the bore.   A "sabot" slug will typically be lighter, smaller in diameter (simply buy the proper "gauge" for your gun ... the projectile itself will be encased in plastic which will make up the difference), and faster.   Bottom line here is, "sabots" will typically be much more accurate, and much more expensive.   If you already own a smooth-bore, you're also facing another $50 - $500 for a rifled "slug" bbl.   20ga is less powerful than 12ga ... however, many 20ga guns are quite a bit more lightweight than 12ga ... so recoil is the same, if not worse, with 20ga.   However, if you can find a 20ga gun with a steel frame (almost all Mossbergs come with aluminum frames, and almost all Remington 870's are steel) that weighs 6.5 lbs or more ... and some "managed-recoil" 20ga slugs, that would probably be best.

Ask anyone what deer-rifle to get, and they'll invariably say ".30-06", ".270" or ".30-30".   And either is a fine choice!   Not the best ... but a fine choice.   Two cartridges are 100yr+ old (.270 is 90yr old and is simply a .30-06 with a smaller bullet).   There's nothing wrong with old cartridges ... just that, they were designed with particular limitations, in mind.   Not the least of which being, the quality of steel, or lack thereof, from 100yr+ ago.   To understand this, you need to accept the fact that not all rifle cartridges are created equal ... and no, I'm not talking about bullet diameter, weight, or velocity.   I'm talking about powder!   100yr+ ago, blackpowder was popular for one very simple reason ... it burned at a very low pressure ... so the guns of the time, made of inferior steel (by today's standards) would not blow apart.   Shortly thereafter, "smokeless" powder became more and more common.   Smokeless powder has a couple significant advantages ... one is, it doesn't create a giant cloud of thick smoke for every shot (obscuring your vision to deliver follow-up shots) ... the other is, by weight, far less powder can be used to create the pressure necessary, to deliver the same, or better velocity.   The caveat is, "smokeless" powder, the faster it burns, the higher the pressure it creates ... to the point, if the gun's not up to it, it could blow apart!   In some cases, you may see a particular rifle designated as "blackpowder-only" ... this is why.   The older "smokeless" cartridges used (by today's standards) very "slow-burning" powder as it burned at lower pressures ... less likely to blow apart the guns, of the time.   In order to obtain the desired velocities, whilst keeping pressures low, larger cases (by today's standards) were required.   Moreover, "slow-burning" powder is much more dense (heavy, by volume).   This, combined with the need to fill the case more than not, resulted in a lot of powder (by today's standards), by weight.   Today, we have what are referred to as "short-action" calibers (i.e. .308, 7mm-08, .300 WSM) ... as they are about 1/2in shorter than "traditional" cartridges most commonly of the same overall length as the venerable .30-06.   These new "short-action" cartridges took advantage of the better steel by making use of "faster-burning" powders.   These "faster-burning" powders generated much higher pressure, but nothing the newer guns couldn't handle with no ill effects.   Less (by weight) "faster-burning" powder, in a smaller case, generates higher pressure, delivering ballistics equal or superior to that of their "slower", larger predecessors.   The formula to calculate recoil (how much force firing a gun will "kick" your shoulder) includes, among other things, the weight of the powder in the case.   In no uncertain terms, an identical bullet, fired at an identical velocity, from a shorter bbl, in a gun of identical weight, will recoil less, with a "short-action" cartridge.   Moreover, a smaller diameter bullet, of the same weight (or not much less), will typically be more aerodynamic.   As a bullet travels through the air, it slows down.   The less aerodynamic the bullet is, the more it slows down.   All bullets drop at the same rate ... no matter how fast they leave the bbl.   However, a bullet which has not slowed down as much, will reach a particular distance in less time.   At which, by the time a faster bullet reaches a particular distance (let's say 100yd), it will not have dropped, as much.   This effect is so significant, in the case of .30-06, even when a 150gr bullet is fired at a faster velocity than a 140gr 7mm-08, in as little as 100yd, the .30-06 will have slowed down to where it's slower than the 7mm-08, at the same point.   As the 150gr .30-06 weighs more, and is leaving the bbl at a higher velocity, if you were to shoot a deer at let's say 10yd, the .30-06 will have more ft/lbs of energy.   Even at 100yd, as the 150gr .30-06 was that much heavier than the 140gr 7mm-08, even though it's moving slower, the .30-06 still has more energy.   However, the .30-06 continues to slow down at a faster rate, than the 7mm-08 ... and by the time they both reach 200yd, despite being a lighter bullet, it's now moving so much faster, it has nearly the same energy as the .30-06.   At 300yd, the 140gr 7mm-08 has significantly more energy than the 150gr .30-06 ... and so on.   You might not take a 300yd shot ... but the reason most folks prefer a high-power rifle is so, if they needed to, they could.   Regardless, no one would ever suggest that a .30-06 was insufficient to kill a deer at 200yd ... 300yd ... or even 400yd.   Consider now, that the 7mm-08 has the same energy at 200yd, more energy at 300yd, and even more energy at 400yd.   Some might suggest, as the 7mm-08 is a narrower bullet, despite delivering more energy, it won't have the same "killing force" as the larger .30-06 bullet.   Would you say that about a 7mm Rem. Mag.?   It's the same exact bullet!   No matter how you slice it, you will likely never hit a deer at 400yd with either a 7mm-08 or a .30-06.   Probably not even 300yd.   Even 200yd will likely be few and far between.   As much energy as a 7mm-08 has at 400yd (plenty, to kill a deer), it will have a lot more at 300yd, and even more at 200yd, and far more than enough at 100yd.   And, even in a smaller, lighter gun, it has less recoil than a .30-06.   Would you rather lug around a one pound heavier gun, get kicked in the shoulder harder for every shot, and past 200yd deliver less energy?   Or carry a one pound lighter gun, never even notice the gun bumping your shoulder, and deliver more energy past 200yd, and well more than enough, within 200yd?   In all likelihood, if you were to show up to deer-camp with anything other than a .30-06, .270, .30-30, .45-70, or some "magnum", the less-secure of your buddies will invariably suggest you "change your diaper".   Beyond that, delivering X amount of energy, into the vitals, of your intended target is the result of a combination of a lotta things ... not the least of which, actual ballistics, actual recoil, and actual skill (typically the result of dozens of rounds fired, at the range).   There is absolutely nothing about a .30-06, .270, or .30-30 that lends themselves well to any of those things ... when compared to the likes of a .308, 7mm-08, 6.5 Creedmoor, or in many cases, even a .243.   That said, recent advances in bullets for levergun rifles have made the .30-30 ... or more specifically, the .308 Marlin Express and .338 Marlin Express, a far more viable option.   These guns are still typically much more lightweight (than their bolt-action counterparts) ... particularly if they don't have a sizable scope, mounted.   I wouldn't say one would need to mount a scope on a lever-rifle ... only that, with less total mass, recoil will be more significant ... and in the case of .338 Marlin Express, nearly intolerable.

following is ballistics comparison:

	6.5 Creed	7mm-08	.270	.30-06	.308 MX	.338 MX	.338 Fed
make	Hornady	Remington Core-Lokt			Hornady	Hornady	Federal
grains	129	140	130	150	160	200	210
ft/lbs @ 500yd	1,214	1,005	936	876	978	1,221	1,266
ft/lbs @ 400yd	1,415	1,228	1,180	1,131	1,197	1,471	1,545
ft/lbs @ 300yd	1,641	1,490	1,472	1,445	1,457	1,762	1,878
ft/lbs @ 200yd	1,894	all in excess of 1,700				2,099	2,266
ft/lbs @ 100yd	all in excess of 2,100					2,484	2,712
ft/lbs @ muzzle	all in excess of 2,500					2,922	3,225
drop @ 200yd	zero	zero	zero	zero	+1.7	+1.2	zero
drop @ 300yd	-6.8	-7.8	-7.0	-8.2	-6.7	-7.9	-9.4
drop @ 400yd	-19.6	-22.9	-20.9	-24.4	-23.5	-25.9	-27.3
drop @ 500yd	-39.5	-46.8	-43.3	-50.9	-50.7	-54.3	-56.3

There also seems to be some question over "acceptable accuracy" for a deer-rifle.   Popular anecdotes are "minute of deer" or "hit a paper-plate at 100yd".   Some folks believe deer deserve some level of "respect", and therefore, only a 100% "kill-shot" should ever be tried.   Others fail to consider what's beyond the trees, or the top of the hill, they're shooting towards ... particularly if their shot misses the deer, completely.   I won't try to suggest that one particular level of accuracy, or certainty, is required.   However, if you take a "risky" shot, and kill your buddy, because you "didn't know he was there" ... it's all on you!   Past that, if you don't hit a vital organ, chances are good, you'll spend an hour or more trying to track the wounded deer in no end of thick brush, end up drenched in your own sweat, and never find the deer.   If that's your idea of a "good" hunt, then you're all set!   Otherwise, take a look at the picture (below).   The deer's heart is about 3in above where it's front legs meet it's body (if it's a 100% broadside shot) ... and is maybe a bit bigger than your fist.   If you don't like tracking deer, this would be a very good spot to aim at ... and a good size group to try to maintain, at the range.   Moreover, if you only ever shoot your rifle from sandbags on a bench, you'd do well to drag that bench and sandbags all over the woods/field with you!   There's nothing wrong with using a bench/sandbags to check your scope's "zero".   But if you don't at least TRY a dozen shots, standing up, with no support from any trees or posts or anything, then don't try the shot in the field!   The heart's also a good target in that, should you miss low, you'll either miss the deer cleanly, or break it's leg.   If you miss cleanly, maybe one of your buddies will get a better shot later ... or another day.   If you break it's leg, it shouldn't go far, very fast, , and you can finish what you started.   If you can't deal with the fact that a heart-shot has greater odds of missing cleanly, then you better dress appropriately for lots of bushwhacking! I'll also suggest you consider leaving your post an hour or two before legal shooting hours are over, for the day.   The reason being, the light will get very low ... making for a far more difficult shot ... more likely resulting in only wounding the deer ... resulting in tracking ... LOTS of tracking.   The other being, as difficult as it is to track a wounded deer, even with a headlamp, doing so in the dark is ... well ... not fun!



More on taking a shot ... ya see all that stuff (in the picture) towards the back half the deer?   When the deer is more or less "facing" you, even if you hit the heart, you'll be hitting all that other stuff, too!   All that other stuff not only smells bad, it gets everywhere!   When a deer is coming directly towards you, or moving directly away from you, there's basically no good shot.   If it's moving at an angle ... it's typically what we call "quartering to" or "quartering away" from you.   When it's "quartering to" you, you need to picture the heart between the closest front-leg, and the center of the chest ... if you shoot the same spot you always do, on all them neat "deer" targets ya shot at the range, you'll not only miss the heart completely, you'll almost perfectly shred all that nasty stuff on the back half of the deer!   The heart is still about the size of your fist, but it's in the center of the chest ... this is no matter, with a 100% broadside shot ... but when the deer's "quartering", you need to adjust your aim, accordingly.   All that said, I would not be one to take a "quartering to" shot ... best-case scenario, you hit the far edge of the heart, and only skim the guts, a bit ... worst-case, you hit the heart perfectly, or anywhere towards the close edge, and you shred lots of guts!   However, with a "quartering away" shot, you aim further back from the front-leg, depending on the angle of the deer, and so long as it's not such a big angle that it's nearly moving directly away from you, you can pretty much shoot to miss the guts entirely, and if you come away with a good heart-hit, then "good shooting!"   And if you don't, you most likely miss cleanly ... or break its leg.   I've also heard several others report excellent results with neck shots ... although, I would prefer a smaller, lighter bullet designed for quick expansion.   I've not yet tried it, but I like how if it's a hit, it'll most likely pierce the carotid artery, and/or break the neck.   And if not one of those, it either misses cleanly, or otherwise does minimal damage.   If I were carrying a .243 or .25-06, I would very much like to give this a try!

It's never advantageous to try to use a pistol, in a rifle-legal area.   Shooting a pistol, capable of killing a deer up to 100yd+, and having the skill to actually hit more vitals than guts, is a rare combination.   And it won't be the result of anything less than hundreds of practice rounds (and not .38spl or .44spl, neither), at the same range, at a photo-realistic target.   Anyone can rest a pistol on sandbags, aim at, and hit a bullseye ... once in a while ... with reduced-power loads ... at 50yd.   But to think ya could then lean against a tree, aim at an animal, and kill it with an accurate, full-house magnum, at 100yd+, is absolutely laughable.   For one thing, the deer won't necessarily be standing perfectly broadside for ya.   For another, no matter how he's standing, he won't have a nice shiny "bullseye" marking the perfect spot to aim at.   And at the very least, no matter how powerful your handgun is, if you think the bullet's gonna hit at the anywhere within 12in, at 25yd, and 100yd ... particularly with a scope mounted, you're in for a big surprise.   That said, if you're willing to put in the practice, necessary ... and absolutely guarantee ya won't attempt any shot even 1yd past what ya successfully did, off-hand, at the range ... and you'll use ammo with the ballistics to do the job ... then there's no reason left, ya couldn't use a pistol.   In fact, in a "shotgun" zone, with the appropriate practice, you might find you're actually more accurate, with a pistol (which is typically also legal, in "shotgun" zones).   Make sure you don't limit your practice to only warm summer months.   Ballistic performance can vary greatly, depending on temperature.   That doesn't mean you can't practice at all, during the summer.   In fact, laying out a practice schedule where you shoot 2 - 5 times (50rd+/ea) per month, over the course of several months, would result in a superb familiarity, and confidence, with your pistol.   But an inch off the mark, at 25yd, is 2in off the mark, at 50yd ... and 4in off the mark, at 100yd ... meaning, what was previously a dead-center heart-shot, is now either a lung-shot, or a flesh wound ... and slightly off target, is now either a complete miss, or maybe a gut-shot.   Good practice would be to shoot, each session, at 25yd, 50yd, 75yd, and 100yd ... score all your shots (noting 0pt misses) ... and track all these scores, by yardage, sesssion to session.   By the time opener comes around, you should be well aware, what your odds of success might be, at these various ranges ... and what your maximum range, should be.


print this out on 8.5x11, for a cheap 25yd target

There's really only one thing worse than a wet coat, wet hat, wet socks, wet gloves, and/or wet boots ... and that's having no dry ones along!   If you've got a tree-stand to hang, you're gonna sweat.   If you've got a mile or more to your post, you're gonna sweat.   If you've gotta track a deer, you're gonna sweat.   If you step through thin ice on a creek or pond, you might not sweat.   If you drag a deer pretty much anywhere, for pretty much any amount of time, you're gonna sweat.   Bring extra stuff!

Ya don't need to become an EMT.   But if ya think you're gonna call 911 or take a 10mi drive to the "minute clinic", you got another thing comin'.   As most deer hunters die of a heart-attack, ya might consider learning CPR ... and pray you're not the one who's gonna need it!   If ya break your leg, being able to light a small fire might help pass the time whilst ya wait for your buddies to miss ya.   One of them 30mi 2-way radios might come in handy, too ... particularly if ya can read out your GPS coordinates!   Maybe go for 30min walk every other night for a few weeks before the season opens ... and lay off the bacon ... clear out the arteries just a skosh.

following is a checklist:

to the post   deer license/tag(s)   LED headlamp (+ extra batteries)   LED flashlight (+ extra batteries)   300+ reflective thumb-tacks   2+ rifle/shotgun   1+ pistol (+1 if primary)   slings/holsters/belts   20+ shells (per gun)   2+ magazines/clips (per gun)   ammo/magazine/clip pouch/carrier(s)   binoculars (10x42+)   gutting knife (razor sharp ... use it for nothing else)   6+ paper-towel/rags   deer-drag (9ft thick rope ties to 1in x 6in wood dowel)   3+ zip-ties (for deer-tags)   scents and/or calls

to camp   2+ insulated parka   2+ insulated hat   blaze-orange mad-bomber   blaze-orange vest   2+ long-johns   2+ snow-pants   2+ snow-boots   6+ hand-warmers (those cheap chemical packet deallies)   6+ foot-warmers   2+ t-shirts   2+ blaze-orange sweatshirts   2+ insulated gloves   sleeping bag (-30° or lower)   pillow   coffee cup   aspirin   antacid   prescription(s)

survival   24+ bottles water   compass   map   GPS (+ extra batteries)   2-way radio (+ extra batteries)   whistle   lighter (check/refill fluid)   6+ waterproof bandaids (preferably in various sizes)   burn creme   gauze   tape

self-defense

carry:

A carry-gun is the ultimate exercise in "compromise".   If it's more powerful, it's bigger.   If it's bigger, it's heavier.   If it's bigger and/or heavier, it's more difficult to conceal.   If it's smaller and/or lighter, but more powerful, it's nearly impossible to hit the bad-guy (and probably otherwise hit an innocent bystander, in the background).   If it's smaller, lighter, and less powerful, it may not be effective.   Then there's the issue of concealment.   If your workplace frowns upon such things, concealment may be paramount (or, you might not carry there, at all).   An IWB (inside the waistband) holster is among the most concealable holsters.   An OWB is among the most comfortable.   A pocket-holster affords a great deal of comfort, and with a small enough pistol, excellent concealment ... but this would likely be among the smallest, lightest, and least powerful, of pistols ... and it won't come out of that pocket, quickly.   A SOB (small of back) holster may seem like a neat idea ... 'til you fall or get knocked backward, and land on it!   Some folks believe a .380 in a pocket is "good enough", yet if they carry OWB, they insist on a .45 ... and/or a double-stack pistol.   Rather, a single-stack 9mm pistol might otherwise afford enough concealment (IWB or OWB) that pocket-carry is not necessary, yet with the smaller/lighter gun, 9mm is not otherwise "too much" to handle.

home:

Unlike a carry-gun, there's almost no need at all, to compromise, on a home-defense gun.   A pump or semi-automatic shotgun (best in 2.75in buckshot or #4) or rifle (best in .223), maneuverability aside, may be the best option.   However, with children about, it can be impossible to keep the weapon "at the ready", yet secure.   Whereas, with an economical "lock-box" (bolted to a wall or piece of furniture), a pistol might otherwise be somewhat quickly accessed.   Revolver vs. semi-auto is somewhat unimportant ... familiarity for those expected to use it, must be the overriding consideration.   With a larger/heavier gun (than an otherwise concealable carry-gun), one may be tempted to go with a much more powerful caliber, like .357 or .45.   However, even with a larger/heavier gun, with little to no regular (every week, every other week, every month, every other month) practice, delivering a "kill" shot in as little as 10ft can be very unlikely ... particularly under the stress of having been woken from a deep sleep, and adrenaline streaming out of your eyes.   Moreover, should you miss with a more powerful caliber, that bullet is that much more likely to penetrate sheetrock, and strike someone in an adjacent room ... or even a neighbor.   And for what?!

caliber:

At 10ft ... even 50ft ... no one can survive a 9mm or .38spl heart-shot ... and two of 'em in rapid succession will be much more likely to keep him from doing any more harm.   Conversely, a .357 or .45 which does not otherwise hit the heart, would be far less effective.   Two shots require a series of skills ... aim ... fire ... recover (the more powerful the caliber, and smaller/lighter the gun, the more time this will take) ... aim ... fire.   Let's say you miss your first shot ... regardless of caliber (but still, more likely with a more powerful caliber).   Now the lives of you and your loved ones depends on how quickly you can line-up, and fire another shot (actually hitting a really good spot, this time).   What if there's more than one bad-guy?!   Don't take my word for it ... go to the range ... with a friend ... have him time you ... he'll say "go!" ... you fire two shots at 15ft in one second ... if your friend's watch ticks twice, before your second shot, the target doesn't count ... ideally, do this with either a 9mm or .38spl ... and a more powerful gun, of your choosing.   Any target you can't cover both holes with your fist over the center, you missed the heart!   Ammo companies prefer to sell you on "muzzle energy".   But if "muzzle energy" were the end-all, at 362 ft/lbs (115gr @1,190fps) 9mm would be "more effective" than .45 ACP at 356 ft/lbs (230gr @835fps).   That's not to say that 9mm is a poor choice ... it's an excellent choice ... but not because it has more "muzzle energy".   Col. Jeff Cooper founded IPSC/USPSA which measures ammo's "effectiveness" by "power factor" (simply multiplying a bullet's weight in grains times its velocity in fps, and dividing by 1,000).   At which, the same .45 ACP has a 192pf ... vs. 137pf for the 9mm.   You can play the numbers game 'til the end of time ... ultimately, at some point, a higher number simply means you're more likely to miss.   137pf is plenty to stop most "mortal" men ... and even if it weren't, two shots of 137pf into a really good spot is gonna be a whole lot better than one or two shots of 192pf which either miss completely, or don't hit as good a spot.   For .38spl, most "defensive" loads have too light of a bullet (trying to pump up the advertised "muzzle energy").   Buffalo Bore makes a 158gr .38spl (standard pressure) chronographed at 979fps out of a 4in S&W to produce a 154pf ... in .38+P, a comparable load produces a 184pf!   Most "defensive" .357 loads would be lucky to produce that much "power" ... from such a short bbl.

aim:

Most self-defense encounters are ended with mere "presentation" of a gun (bad-guy is persuaded to find another victim).   Nothing wrong with that.   But if it don't work out that way, "shooting to wound" is a good way to get yourself killed.   If you're going somewhere that you think you need a bigger gun, don't go there!   If you think someone is likely to confront you, avoid them!   Drawing your gun must be the absolute last resort.   Having done so, your #1 goal must be to end the attack.   The ideal way to end the attack would be a shot between the eyes, as it immediately stops all bodily function (such as thrusting a knife into your chest).   However, under the stress of an attack, that would be a very "low percentage" shot (it wouldn't take much to miss, completely).   At least, with a shot at the heart, a few inches off target would still have good odds of persuading the attacker to stop.   That said, the attacker may be wearing heavy clothing ... or possibly even some sort of "body armor".   At which, upon realization that the body shots are ineffective, a quick transition to between the eyes, affords the only possibility of survival.

practice:

"The one who is most proficient with his gun, is the likely victor."   For the most part, bad-guys don't practice shooting ... much.   However, they do have the advantage of "surprise" (you have no idea what's about to happen).   Frankly, should they "get the drop on you", you may very well be unconscious ... or dead ... before you have any clue what's happened.   However, in lieu of giving up, before you're ever attacked, you can choose to improve your odds.   There are various steps you can take, to improve your odds ... to varying extents.   A good way to start is to take an advanded "self defense with a gun" course (presuming you've already taken some sort of "basic" handgun course).   Such a course may be a day or two ... or a week.   It may be local, or across the country.   It may be a couple hundred dollars ... or a couple thousand.   But something will be better than nothing.   From such a class, you should get several ideas for your own practice sessions (to keep your newly acquired knowledge/skills "fresh").   A large part of that should be "mental" ... you should be aware of your surroundings to the extent that you can identify a potential threat, before any attack occurs.   You should also plan on visiting a firing range with some regularity.   Ideally, the range would allow you to draw from a holster (however, you may need to join a gun club, for such privileges).   Your range time ideally should include some sort of stress (so the stress of an actual attack, has less of an effect, on your shooting).   One excellent way to introduce stress into your shooting is to participate in weekly USPSA or IDPA matches (such matches often cost less than $20 and are no more intimidating than bowling with your buddies).   The first few matches, you need to focus on safe gun handling, such that you don't have an accident ... or otherwise get DQ'd (disqualified).   Of course, you need to focus on safe gun handling, at every match (and any other time you handle a gun).   But for your first few matches, and until abiding all the safety rules becomes more "muscle memory", you should be paying almost no attention, at all, to your score, or how long it takes you.   One person at a time shoots ... your shooting is timed ... your shots are scored ... you may need to move around, to engage multiple targets ... some targets may even be moving, and/or activated (appearing/disappearing) ... and a half-dozen or more people may be watching you shoot.   All that, along with worrying about DQing adds just enough stress to get your adrenaline pumping at a significant rate (not nearly the same as an actual attack, but far better than nothing).   However, if you participate in such matches, with a 5in steel-frame 1911, but carry a lightweight S&W .38 revolver, you would still need to take the .38 to the range, now and again!

oops:

Buying a gun for self-defense is much like purchasing a "black belt".   You can pick a fight with a big guy in a bar .. but unless you've put in the thousands of hours of training and practice, to earn that "black belt", you're probably gonna get your ass kicked ... bad.   That's not to say there's no value in merely "having a gun".   Most encounters are ended with mere "presentation".   However, your "presentation" might otherwise raise the severity of the attack.   Moreover, you might be forced to shoot.   And, with little to no training/practice, your shot may very well miss the bad-guy ... and injure, maim, or kill an innocent bystander (at which, you'll be lucky if you don't end up in prison, yourself).   You also need to remember that you're not Batman!   If someone is attacking someone you don't know, or care about, it's a matter for the police to resolve.   You can dial 911 ... you can make note of what the attacker looks like ... and which direction he headed ... but don't try to follow him!   You're not a cop!   And any attempt to behave like one may very well end up with you in jail, sued, or both ... if not dead (possibly even as a matter of "revenge" upon you, or your family ... at a later date ... by the bad-guy ... or his friends/family).

saa:

Single Action Army refers to a style of revolver best exemplified as the Colt 1873 "Peacemaker".   This pistol has been reproduced for nearly 150yr.   The design may seem antiquated, but with a bit of practice, so long as no more than 6rd are called for, almost no other gun on the planet, is faster.   A double-action revolver can be reloaded more quickly (particularly if it's setup for moon-clips).   However, since the 1950's, Ruger has made what they call the Blackhawk ... basically the '73 Peacemaker, with large sights.   Ideally, a home-defense gun will have a weaponlight mounted to it, and/or a tritium front sight.   Such a gun (with a good quality light) can also easily cost over $1,000.   If that's not in the budget, a brand new Ruger Blackhawk can typically be had for less than $600 (sometimes, even less than $500) ... a used one, for even less.   These guns are nearly indestructible.   These Blackhawks are most often .357/.38 ... but can also be found in .45 Colt (sometimes, with interchangeable .45 ACP cylinders).   Any of those calibers would be well-suited to home-defense.   A proper two-hand grip will have the strong-hand pinky underneath the butt, with the weak-hand fingers overlapping those of the strong-hand, with the weak-hand thumb pointed straight up.   As you need to cock the pistol, you do so with the weak-hand thumb ... otherwise not disturbing the rest of your two-hand grip.   With a bit of practice, six shots can accurately be fired in 2 - 3 seconds!   A striker-fired plastic automatic pistol is a very simple pistol for nearly anyone to operate ... so long as it don't jam ... or otherwise need to cycle the slide, manually (requiring a significant amount of hand-strength, dexterity, and familiarity).   That's not to say that a revolver can't break.   But all else being equal, the odds of an SAA revolver having any type of stoppage is nearly zero.   Moreover, if someone in the house (i.e. wife) is expected to make use of the pistol, she may not otherwise take the time to practice clearance drills.   For some folks, a revolver is simply more familiar (less intimidating).   If not, then a reliable, well-maintained automatic may very well prove more effective ... particularly in a "worst-case" scenario.

cleaning

Cleaning your gun is like changing the oil in your car ... the less you do it, the more trouble you're likely to run into.

All kinds of guns have different areas ya need to focus on.   But one thing they all have in common is a bore.   Typical projectiles are lead ... which may or may not be coated with copper or plastic.   Keep in mind, in a shotgun, the wad is traveling the full length of the bore ... which tends to get very warm.   Keeping the bore clean is important because, if ya don't, projectiles are traveling a narrower bore, as you continue to fire, without cleaning.   This raises the pressure built up, upon firing.   Too much pressure can result in irreparable damage to the gun ... possibly also, to yourself.

Cleaning the bore typically involves use of solvents.   Some are more aggressive, than others.   The more aggressive ones, if left in your bore too long, may do more harm, than good.   At which, you should use them sparingly ... only when necessary.   Whether using solvents, oil, or dry, you will need to use patches (cotton-flannel) with a brass spear-tipped jag, on the end of a cleaning-rod (preferably carbon-fiber).   All rods will bow, when in use ... and steel rods will rub against the bore in an uneven manner.   Aluminum, or coated rods will retain small particles (like a sponge), and act like a "scouring pad" inside the bore.   This is why some folks claim that cleaning, at all, can actually "do more harm, than good".

Before you start cleaning a bore, take a look (shine a bright light into the action) ... you'll see a black soot, in there.   The first couple patches, dampen with a mild solvent, and only push the patches ... from the breach-end, all the way, out the muzzle ... and don't re-use the patch.   Take another look ... the bore should appear to be almost completely clean.   However, there may still be some copper, lead, or plastic/moly fouling.   At this point, if you absolutely need to use a more aggressive solvent, dampen a patch, and run it back and forth down the bore, several times, remove the patch, and let it set, for several minutes.   Then run a dry patch only pushing it ... from the breach-end, all the way, out the muzzle ... and don't re-use the patch.   Take a look at the patch ... you may see some blueish-green coloring ... that's dissolved copper fouling.   Repeat the process, until ya can barely make out any coloring.   For copper fouling, an aggressive solvent is unnecessary ... Hoppe's #9 does a fine job, on this.

For "precision" rifles, I prefer to use only a jag, patches, and a mild solvent ... like Hoppe's #9.   For a bolt-action, if I believe it's worthwhile, I'll sometimes use Butch's Boreshine ... but then "rinse" it out with liberal use of Hoppe's #9.   I don't like to use aggressive solvents in automatic rifles as it will get into the gas-port and possibly the tube ... and then, without dissassembly of the gas-system, there's no way to get it all out, again.   Besides, with patience, Hoppe's #9 will do a good job.   Moreover, I avoid using bronze bore brushes and/or abrasive solvents, in "precision" bores.   They're simply unnecessary, and likely reduce the number of "precise" shots, the bore is otherwise capable of.

Otherwise, for pistol, lever-rifle, and shotgun bores, I don't mind using an abrasive solvent and/or bronze bore brushes.   For an abrasive solvent, I like Remington 40X ... it has almost no smell to it, which is great for use indoors, with a wife and kids around.   However, I will often still use a jag and patches, instead of a bronze bore brush.   With the 40X, I find it's often more effective.   I've had lead fouling so bad, that upon using a jag/patch with 40X, I actually drove out inches-long shards of lead, from the rifling.   I also use the same combination to clean the chambers in a revolver.

For cleaining almost any bore, the proper diameter jag, and appropriately sized cotton-flannel patches will do almost anything you need ... often times, better than any alternative.   Unfortunately most cleaning "kits" comes with a sectional aluminum cleaning rod, and a "slotted tip".   The latter being utterly useless for anything at all.   And an aluminum rod possibly doing more harm than good.

When done cleaning a bore, it's best to run a few dry patches, to remove as much solvent, as possible.   Then, if I have no plans to shoot the gun, in the near future, I'll run a patch damp with oil.   However, if you do this, you may want to run a dry-patch through, at a later date, when you intend to shoot it, again.

For cleaning most any other parts of a gun, use patches, damp with either Hoppe's #9, Remington 40X, oil, or otherwise dry ... and a bronze or nylon "toothbrush" to manipulate them into whatever crevices, as needed ... most commonly, in the grooves of the slide, for an automatic pistol ... and where they mate, on the frame.   But wherever your "toothbrush" can reach, that's a good spot to clean.

Don't forget to oil/lube your gun, per the owner's manual.   If you don't have an owner's manual, if you write the manufacturer, they'll send you one ... most likely, at no charge.   You can also often find the owner's manual online, somewhere.   For an automatic pistol, most common oiling points are in the grooves in the slide, and a drop or two on the bbl (smear it all over).   Avoid using excessive amounts of oil ... as this can otherwise attract debris, and gunk up your gun, sooner than later.   To that end, avoid oiling (at all) any areas not otherwise specified, in the owner's manual ... particularly into little holes or crevices you never otherwise see inside of (over time, repeated oiling will simply "pool" up, inside there ... and attract debris).


jag


bore brush


bronze "toothbrush"


nylon "toothbrush"


Hoppe's #9


Remington 40X


Butch's Boreshine


cotton-flannel patches


carbon-fiber rod

The Ruger .41 Magnum Flattop Revolver by Joel Hutchcroft • March 4, 2011

Three of my favorite aspects of Ruger’s rugged Blackhawk have finally been put together in one revolver. I’m talking about the .41 Magnum chambering, the Flattop topstrap, and the original-size XR3-style grip frame. This new version is obviously made by Ruger, and it is distributed solely by Williams Shooters Supply, Inc. of Quincy, Illinois. As soon as I found out about it, I had to get one. I’ve had mine for about three weeks as I write this, and I’ve been “playing” with it every day since it arrived. I have to say I’m absolutely thrilled with it.

The new wheelgun handles just like you would expect a Blackhawk that has the smaller grip frame to handle. It happens to fit my medium-size hand like it was made for me. And it shoots as you would expect a Ruger Blackhawk to shoot, too. It hit point of aim at 25 yards with Winchester 240-grain Platinum Tip ammo right out of the box. And it averaged 2.13 inches for five-shot groups with three out of four factory loads I fired from a sandbag benchrest. I certainly have no complaints with that kind of accuracy.

The gun is being offered with 45/8-inch or 6-inch barrels, and I chose the shorter tube because I intend to carry this one in a holster on my hip while I go about my chores at the farm. All the pertinent features of this cool sixgun can be found in the accompanying specifications list, but I will take a few minutes here to remind readers of its heritage.

The original .357 Magnum Blackhawk, introduced by Ruger in 1955, was built on a smaller frame than the New Model Blackhawks, which appeared on the scene in 1973. Those original guns also did not have the protective sight shoulders of the later guns; hence, the nickname “Flattop.” The original Flattop .357s were offered with 45/8-, 6.5-, and 10-inch barrels, and they were produced until 1962. In 1962 the version with the protected rear sight replaced the original Flattop. In 1956 Ruger started building .44 Magnum Blackhawks with the Flattop topstrap, but they had a heavier frame and cylinder. They, too, were made until the early 1960s.

In 2005, as part of the celebration of 50 years of producing the Blackhawk in its various versions, Ruger brought out a special small-frame Flattop edition of the .357. That version had the Flattop topstrap, adjustable Micro rear sight, and 45/8-inch or 6.5-inch barrel, plus it had a newly redesigned grip frame that was very similar in size and feel to the original XR3 grip strap. The action was the New Model Blackhawk action, complete with transfer-bar firing mechanism, but with a couple new twists. The company incorporated a then-new action lock inside the grip frame at the base of the mainspring and hammerstrut. When the action lock was engaged by a key, the hammer couldn’t be fully cocked and the transfer bar did not lift into firing position. Also with the .357 Magnum 50th Anniversary Flattop Blackhawk, much like with the original gun, when you opened the loading gate and rotated the cylinder, you could hear a click when the chamber was lined up with the loading chute. For some reason unknown to me, the cylinders of intervening New Model Blackhawks did not line up with the loading chute when you heard that click.

Then in 2006 Ruger brought out a Flattop Blackhawk in .44 Magnum to commemorate 50 years of building .44 Magnum revolvers. It had all the features of the .357 50th Anniversary gun, but its main frame was noticeably longer than the .357 50th Anniversary gun’s main frame. (0.12 inch longer by our measurements.) Its cylinder was also longer than the .357's. Obviously, these changes were done to accommodate the longer .44 Magnum cartridge.

Since then special runs of New Model Flattop Blackhawks (blued and stainless) have been produced and chambered in .44 Special for Lipsey’s and Talo. (There’s even a Flattop Bisley available through Lipsey’s.) Now we have the .41 Magnum Flattop built for Williams Shooters Supply (not associated with Hank Williams Jr.), and for me, it’s the one to have because I much prefer the .41 Magnum over both the .357 and the .44 Magnum.

If you’re like me and love the Flattop Blackhawks and have craved one in .41, now’s your chance. But you had better hurry; I have a feeling these will go fast. And bear in mind, Williams Shooters Supply sells only to licensed dealers, so you’ll want to have your local dealer order one right away.

manufacturer: Sturm, Ruger & Co. model: Flattop Blackhawk distributor: Williams Shooters Supply, Inc. type: Single-action revolver caliber: .41 Magnum capacity: 6 rounds barrel: 4.625in, six grooves, 1:20 RH twist overall 10.25in width: 1.75in height: 5.25in weight: 45oz grips: Black checkered finish: Blued sights: Micro adjustable rear, ramp front trigger: 6.0 lbs pull (as tested) price: POR

.41 Magnum velocity extreme spread standard deviation 25-yard accuracy Winchester 175gr Silvertip 1128fps 101fps 40fps 2.50in Speer 210gr Gold Dot 1269fps 51fps 18fps 1.88in Winchester 240gr Platinum Tip 1109fps 62fps 24fps 2.00in Federal 250gr CastCore 1097fps 70fps 25fps 5.25in

Cowboy Action Shooting (SASS)

Simply put, folks bring one rifle (i.e. .38spl or .45 Colt replica 1866, 1873, 1892, or 1894 lever-action), one shotgun (i.e. SxS 12ga or 20ga or replica Winchester 1897 pump), two SAA-style (i.e. Colt "Peacemaker" or Ruger "Vaquero") pistols, belt/holster for the pistols and dress somewhat like a cowboy or Civil War soldier, and they shoot all them guns at mostly large steel targets at very close range.

When most anyone first brings up "Cowboy Action Shooting", their first concern is for the "dress code".   You need to understand a couple things ... many folks doing it, very much enjoy the "dress up" part of it ... but there are "monthly" matches, "regional" matches, and "national" matches.   If you intend to participate in the "regional" or "national" matches, ya best pay close attention to "proper" attire.   However, at "monthly" matches, most clubs are perfectly fine with modern cowboy boots, blue jeans, straw cowboy hats, and almost any long-sleeve button-down shirt ya can find.   Bear in mind, what's known as a "henley" is a perfectly appropriate shirt at any level ... so long as it ain't the "thermal" variety.   Footwear should be leather, and have a non-textured sole (exceptions often being made for folks with varying "medical" conditions).

I often advise folks that "if ya don't already own a SAA-type pistol and/or lever-rifle, SASS probly ain't your thing".   That said, if ya never dressed up like a cowboy, it's something ya can get used to ... hell, if ya own a pair of blue jeans, you're already halfway there!

Presuming you're still interested, you will need to join SASS.   At which, ya'll need to choose an "alias", by which, everyone at any match is gonna call ya.   Most aliases are either a historical reference (i.e. "Billy the kid") or a western movie actor (i.e. "John Wayne") or a play on words (i.e. "Dusty Balz").   And no two members can have the same alias ... so ya can just forget about them three!

Another thing most would-be SASS members struggle with is the investment in a good quality belt/holster rig.   Ya can cheap out at Cabela's or Sportsman's Guide.   Or, as one old friend put it, "ya can buy your 2nd rig, 1st!"   One of the best deals on the planet is the "Evil Roy" rig from Mernickle for $400 since forever.   $400's a lotta money for most everyone ... particularly if ya still gotta buy a gun 'er two.   But if ya get a good quality rig, like a Mernickle, it'll last ya many years ... each one, as good as the first.

For any one match, ya can sign-up to shoot in one of many different "categories".   Among the most popular is the "Cowboy" category ... ya draw one pistol at a time, and ya can use both hands to hold it, while ya shoot it ... and there's no other caliber, gun, holster, or clothing requirements.   They also have additional categories which are identical to "Cowboy", but restricted based on age ... so the old farts don't gotta try to keep up with the young bucks.   The "Duelist" category requires that ya shoot each pistol one-handed (ya can use the same hand for both, or each hand, for each).   Your belt/holster rig will either have one cross-draw holster (to be drawn with your "strong" hand), or "dual strong-side" (each gun, to be drawn with each hand ... but for two-handed shooting, ya can still transfer one gun to your "strong" hand).   As to shooting-style, the most difficult category is "Gunfighter" (you draw each gun with each hand, both at the same time, and also shoot each gun, with each hand ... one-handed ... typically, alternating shots between guns ... in some cases, you will need to draw only one gun at a time, and shoot all 5rd before drawing the other gun, and doing likewise, but that would be considerably slower).   There are other categories which require certain guns (i.e. SxS shotguns with exposed hammers, 1894 rifles) and/or certain ammo (i.e. blackpowder and/or .40+ dia. bullets) ... check the latest copy of the SASS "handbook" for details.

While ya can sign up for any category ya want, for any one match ("age" restrictions, not withstanding) ... ya'll wanna pay particular attention to any gun, holster, ammo, or clothing requirements.   At which, if ya wanted to shoot a lotta different categories, ya might need more than one belt/holster rig, more than one rifle, more than one shotgun, more than one pair of pistols, and know how to shoot 'em differently.   Or, ya can pick which category ya might enjoy most, and pick your guns, ammo, leather, and clothing based on that choice, alone ... and sign up for only that category ... or whichever other categories, that combination might otherwise afford.

The basic rule with the guns is (partcular category restrictions, not withstanding) "any pre-1900 designed firearm is ok".   At which, the Colt "Lightning" pump-action rifle and the Winchester 1897 pump-action shotgun ... or approved replicas, thereof ... are "legal" for SASS.   Moreover, post-1900 calibers such as .357 (loaded down to .38spl levels), .44spl, .44mag (loaded down to .44spl levels), .45acp, and the like, are also "legal" (as always, particular category restrictions, not withstanding).   And while some "technically inappropriate" guns like the (modern) Henry "Big Boy" and Ruger "Blackhawk" (has adjustable rear sight ... at that, is only legal for one categoryt) are SASS-"legal", some other guns like the IAC "93/97" are not ... buyer beware!   That said, most any replica Uberti, Colt, Winchester, or Ruger "Vaquero" is perfectly "legal" ... as are any non-ejecting (as it opens, it slowly drags the expired shells out of the chambers, but does not otherwise "throw" them clear) SxS 20ga or 12ga shotguns.

Calibers must be .38 or larger (possibly .32, but check the "handbook" first) and 20ga or larger.   Children can shoot in the "buckaroo" category and use .22lr and .410 ("knock-down" targets would then be scored as "static" so, as long as they're "hit", it won't otherwise count as a miss).

Upon arrival to any match, you're welcome to strap on your belt/holsters, and fill them with empty pistols.   This makes getting them from "stage" to "stage" (collection of targets, to be shot as a group, in one timed event) purdy easy.   However, to get your rifle and shotgun around, ya'll otherwise need a "gun cart".   Most "carts" are made of wood, and appear as though they could have been made in the 19th century.   Again, at "monthly" matches, this is not any type of requirement ... worst case, a wagon, re-casing the guns before placing them therein, is ok.   Another relatively easy/inexpensive option is to search the classifieds for used "baby joggers" ... one in decent shape can often be had for less than $40 ... then find some "gun-mounts for ATV's" and mount them to the "jogger" ... many of these also "fold up" for easier transport in your vehicle.   Otherwise, if you'd prefer to jump in with both feet, a wooden "cart" can easily be built by screwing two rectangular wooden "ammo crates" together (side to side), take the lid off of one (this will be the "back", for the gun butts), drill a 1/2in hole near the bottom/rear of the lidless "crate", on both ends, and slide a 1/2in steel rod (from Menard's 'er such) though those holes (that's your axle) ... slide on some "fender" washers (for spacing from the box), then slide a 4ft 2x4 on each end (these are your "uprights"), a couple more "fender" washers, and then some wheels (preferably with pneumatic tires, from Northern Tool 'er such), and a couple more "fender" washers, and drill 1/16in holes through the ends of the axle, and slide in cotter-pins (to keep the wheels from sliding off) ... cut two chunks of 4x4 (or 2x4) a few inches long, and screw them to the bottom of the other "crate" near the front (so with the wheels on, both "crates" set somewhat level) ... drill 3/4in holes a couple inches deep, on edge, into a 2x4, every 2.5in 'er so, and fill 'em with 3/4in dowel cut to 6in 'er so (these are to keep your gun bbl's from banging into each other) and then screw that between your "uprights" about 24in up (this is your "cross-brace") ... screw in a 1in dowel between your "uprights" near the top (this is your handle) ... screw more 3/4in dowel into the lidless "crate", near the top, lined up with the dowels in your "cross-brace" ... at this point, your "upright" can "swing down" over the "crates" so the whole works "folds up" ... "swing" the upright so it's perpindicular to the "crates" (like you're ready to put the guns in it), clamp it to the "crates", so it don't move, and drill 1/2in holes through the "uprights" and the "crate", and then fill them holes with 1/2in "clevis" pins (and slide washers and cotter pins on them, as needed) ... these can be removed, to "fold down" the "cart" ... or, if ya'll never have such a need, ya can otheriwse simply screw the "upright" to the "crate" ... place as many guns into the "cart" as ya can, and try pulling the "handle" back ... if it's purdy "tippy", ya can cut the 4x4's under the front of the "cart", as needed ... ya can also put lots of ammo in the front "crate" to give it "ballast".

If ya wanna shoot a match, and ya don't have a "cart", just show up w/o one ... most likely, someone'll have room on their "cart" ... some clubs even provide "loaner carts" ... otherwise, it might be a good idea to bring cases with shoulder-straps.

The targets will mostly be 18in x 18in steel squares ... usually 3 - 5 targets per gun (both pistols will likely use the same 3 - 5 targets) ... usually the "pistol" targets will be closest (like 10 - 20ft) ... "shotgun" targets will be 15 - 30ft and either be like a "gong" or a "knock-down" (the latter being "re-engagable", until it's "knocked-down") ... and "rifle" targets may be anywhere from 20ft - 50ft.   Most "knock-down" targets are "re-engagable" (you will be told so, before anyone shoots the "stage").   If a target is not "re-engagable", you cannot "make up" any misses.   For example, the "stage description" may specify that you need to shoot 3 "pistol" targets where you fire the first 2rd into the left target, 1rd into the middle target, 2rd into the right target (pistols are always loaded with only 5rd/ea) and then "repeat" with the other pistol ... should your 2nd round miss the left target, your 3rd round must still be fired at the middle target, and your 2nd round will be counted as a miss.   Moreover, in this example, should your 2nd round otherwise hit the middle target, or your 3rd round hit the left target, you will be assessed one "procedural penalty" for any round which does not hit the target specified in the "stage description".   Only when the "stage description" says so (which ain't very often), can you load additional rounds (after previously loaded rounds have been fired) into your pistol or rifle for any "bonus" targets, or "re-engagable" targets.   As your shotgun may never be loaded prior to the "start signal", and "shotgun" targets are often "re-engagable" "knock-down" targets, ya can keep reloading and firing 'til they're all "down", or ya run outta shells.

Everyone takes a turn to shoot each "stage".   When your turn's coming up, you'll need to collect all your guns, and sufficient ammo, and proceed to the "loading table".   At the "loading table", you must cycle your rifle (leaving it with the action "closed") and shotgun to prove they are already empty.   The shotgun must remain empty until it's your turn to shoot, and only after the "start--signal", and you're in the proper location to engage the "shotgun" targets.   Ya may otherwise proceed to load yer rifle's magazine at the "loading-table" with the exact number of rounds specified in the "stage description" (this will most often be 10rd, and never more than 10rd) ... be very careful not to operate the lever once you begin loading the rifle, as this would "chamber" a round ... this is unacceptable before it's your turn to shoot, and you're in the proper location to engage the "rifle" targets.   At the "loading-table", you may also load only 5rd/ea into your pistols ... leaving the empty chamber under the hammer ... once loaded, you may reholster your pistols, however, you may not then leave the "loading-table", except to proceed directly to the "starting location" specified in the "stage description", and then only under the direction of the "RO" (range officer).   If you otherwise need to leave the "loading-table", you must unholster any loaded pistols, and lay them (muzzles pointed safely) on the "loading-table", before you leave the "loading-table".   Anytime you carry your pistols anywhere, they must be either cased (and empty), or in your holsters.   Anytime you carry your "long" guns anywhere, the muzzles must be pointed skyward ... and never be pointed at another person ... accidentally, or not.   When the "RO" calls for you to go to the "starting location", grab both "long" guns, one in each hand, muzzles skyward, and walk to the "starting location" (or otherwise place your "long" guns in racks or on tables, muzzles skyward or downrange, as specified in the "stage description" or directed by the "RO").

When it's your turn to shoot, and you've "staged" your guns, you then assume the "start position" and state any "line" specified in the "stage description" ... upon which, the "RO" will operate the timer as to sound the "start-signal" ... at which, you may then retrieve which gun the "stage description" specified first, and proceed to shoot the targets, specified for the gun you're shooting.   Once a revolver is cocked, it must be fired until empty before you can take more than one step in any direction, or before ya can re-holster it.   Once a rifle is "levered" (a round having been chambered), you may not take more than one step in any direction until you've fired all the rounds, therein ... opened the action, and leaving it open, either lay it down on a table (muzzle pointed downrange), or set it in a rack (muzzle skyward), or carry it (muzzle skyward, or downrange) to where it can otherwise be set down, prior to retrieving the next gun.   As a shotgun may never be loaded before the "start-signal", when retrieving your shotgun, and carrying it (muzzle skyward or downrange) to the proper location to engage the "shotgun" targets, you must first load some shells into it (never more than two shells, at a time ... even if it's a pump), and then shoot at the proper targets ... reload and shoot, as necessary ... when you're done shooting your shotgun, carry it (muzzle skyward or downrange) to where ya can set it down (muzzle skyward, or downrange), with the action open and no shells (empty or not) anywhere that might be considered "in" the "action" ... proceed to the next location and retrieve the next gun, as specified in the "stage description" ... or, if you've shot all your guns, and are finished, the "RO" will direct you to collect your empty "long" guns and carry them (muzzle skyward ... downrange no longer being acceptable) to the "unloading-table".

After you've shot your turn, again carrying your "long" guns with muzzles pointed skyward, proceed directly to the "unloading-table".   At the "unloading-table", you must empty all your guns, and prove they are empty.   The shotgun and rifle should already be completely empty ... if not, it's a "safety violation" ... two of them in a match will "DQ" (disqualify) you, and you will then not be allowed to shoot the rest of the match.   To prove your rifle and shotgun are empty, simply cycle their actions a few times ... any remaining shells, loaded or otherwise, would then clearly be ejected.   For your pistols, while maintaining a safe muzzle direction, open the loading gate, turn the cylinder, and extract each case ... if a case is not empty it's a "safety violation" (unless it was a "bad" round encountered during your turn, and otherwise "handed off" to the "RO").   Upon completely emptying your revolver's cylinder, so someone else at the "unloading-table" can clearly see, spin the cylinder slowly a few times, proving the cylinder is now completely empty, close the loading gate, and re-holster the pistol ... repeat with your other pistol.   Once all your guns are empty, and you've proven to someone else at the "unloading-table" that they're empty, you may then collect your empty "long" guns, and carry them (muzzles skyward) to your "cart" ... and, without pointing them at anyone else, place them into your "cart".

Most any one "stage" will require 10rd for your "pistols", 10rd for your "rifle", and 6rd - 8rd for your "shotgun" (shotgun could actually be anything from zero to 12rd+ ... but 6rd - 8rd is typical).   Most "monthly" matches are six "stages".   At which, ya'll likely not be carrying all your ammo all the time.   When ya need to go to the "loading-table", ya can bring all your ammo, and leaving your (loaded) pistols on the "table", bring any unused ammo back to your "cart", or leave it at the "loading table", and pick it up after you're done shooting your turn.   Either of those is acceptable ... but neither is conducive to a "smooth running" "posse" (the group of shooters you shoot your first, next, and every other stage with, after the posse "ahead" of you, is done with the next "stage").   What seems to work best is what's known as a "loading strip" (like cartridge loops on your belt, except the "belt" is just an 8in strip of leather with a lanyard that ya can hook onto something on your belt).   A "loading strip" is often better than otherwise trying to get a belt with all the necessary cartridge loops on it, for the purposes of loading your rifle and pistols.   Your belt can only be so large.   And it will need to carry two holsters, probably your SASS badge (every member gets one, and is expected to wear it), maybe a cool looking knife, and probably a shotgun "belt-slide" (shell loops for shotgun shells on a strip of leather which snaps over your belt, if ya don't already have loops on your belt, for shotgun shells).   Again, ya'll need to load your shotgun after the "start-signal" ... and, by rule, they need to be "on your person" ... typically, on your belt.   Instead of a "loading strip" for your pistol and rifle cartridges, some folks use a "pouch" they otherwise hang from their belt.   Some folks prefer a "loading strip" as most have exactly 10 loops on each side ... so when a "stage description" specifies something other than 10rd, visually, they can quickly/easily see that they have the correct number of rounds.   With a "pouch", you could otherwise lay them out on the "loading table", to get a similar visual verification.   Moreover, at the "unloading table", it's preferable to have a "pouch" with you, to collect your fired cases, and return them to your "cart".   For those who use a "pouch" at the "loading table", it's often re-filled with empty brass, at the "unloading table", and is simply hooked onto their belt, while they shoot.   The less running back and forth from the "loading" and "unloading" tables, and your "cart", the more efficient your "posse" will be (at which, it's unlikely the "posse" behind you will be waiting on your "posse" to finish their next "stage", very often).   "Pouches" will often be made of buckskin ... but for some reason, purple "Crown Royal" pouches are also quite common.

SASS has what's called the "170°" rule.   It refers to an imaginary line between the rest of your "posse", and the targets.   A straight line, extending (as ya face downrange) from your left, to right, would be the "180°" (a rule otherwise enforced on USPSA and IDPA shooters).   At which, a "170°" line is more like a really large chunk of "pie" where you're at the "point", and the two straight sides extend ever so slightly downrange.   For all intents and purposes, this is merely a clarification for the "RO" as to enforcement of a "180°" (extremely large protractors, not withstanding).   In USPSA/IDPA, with a "180°", the "RO" must make a judgement call as to whether your muzzle actually "broke" that line ... often resulting in mere "warnings".   In SASS, if the "RO" believes your muzzle was anywhere "near" the "180°", you've clearly already "broken" the "170°" ... at which, the "call" is much easier to make.   It would be very rare, that a "stage" would put you in a position where you'd otherwise come "close" to "breaking" the "170°" (outright poor gunhandling, not withstanding).   At which, one very likely possibility for "breaking" the "170°" is upon drawing or reholstering in a "cross-draw" holster.   The way to avoid such a thing is to "twist" your hips such that your hips are nearly perpendicular to downrange, whilst ya draw or re-holster with a "cross-draw".   As soon as the gun's clear of the holster, and so long as it remains pointed downrange, ya can then "twist" your hips back, as ya like ... just remember to "twist" again, for re-holstering.   Right or wrong, many "RO"s will pay more attention to whether you "twist" your hips, at all ... so if ya think ya figured out a way, ya don't have to ... good luck trying to get every "RO" to agree.

Scoring targets in SASS is very fast (compared to nearly any other shooting sport).   They have what they call "spotters" ... three of 'em ... always!   Before each shooter's turn, the "RO" will identify the three "spotters".   While the shooter shoots, the "spotters" will watch every target he shoots at ... they must know the sequence the targets must be shot in, per the "stage description", and count any "procedural" penalties (for shooting the targets "out of sequence") ... and they must also count the number of times the shooter misses a target (usually, by holding up a new finger, for each miss).   By the time the shooter is done shooting, the "RO" looks at how many fingers each "spotter" is holding up.   If all three "spotters" are holding up the same number of fingers, then however many are held up, is the number of misses "awarded" to the shooter.   If only two "spotters" agree, then whatever they agree on, is "awarded" to the shooter.   If all three "spotters" don't agree, then the lowest number of fingers is "awarded" to the shooter.   The rule for "spotters" is "if you think it was a miss, it's a hit".   At which, having one or more "spotters" disagree, is common.   Another rule of "spotting" is, only the current three "spotters" may discuss what they saw ... no one else!   Another rule of "spotting" is "spot as though you were spotting for your buddy ... for everyone!"   That's not to say, that ya should "call" less than ya see ... or otherwise not pay as close of attention ... but "spot" like it really matters, but giving any benefit of the doubt, to the shooter.   In some rare cases, the "RO", or some other "senior" club member may take exception to a "call" made by a "spotter".   This will rarely change what's been "called", but poor "spotting" benefits no one ... and must be rectified.   If you're the one on the receiving end of that, either do a better job, or pick up brass, or reset targets.   The "RO" will also use a "shot-timer" which will record the sound of your guns firing ... at which, the time from the "start-signal", to the sound of your last shot fired, will be your total "raw" time.   Misses and "procedural" penalties will be "awarded" in the form of "seconds" added to your "raw" time.   In each category, the shooter with the least total time for all the "stages" of the match, will "win".   In all likelihood, 1st place in each category will not win a new Chevy ... so try to relax, a bit!